Type: | Trad, 275 ft (83 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 906 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Greg Kuchyt on May 19, 2013 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
The first two pitches of Flashdance offer great moves, good protection, and contrasting characters. They also offer a much more fulfilling approach to pitch 3 of Overture. For those not looking for the path of least resistance, I would recommend this as the link-up to provide the best consistent climbing for this section of the cliff.
Pitch 1 (5.9) 75': Climb the right side of the flake at the base and gain the right-facing corner. Technical climbing with a thuggish move brings you to a ledge with a left-rising tips crack in a mini right-facing corner. Follow this to the obvious humangous overlap/right-facing flake. Move right making physical moves transitioning from undercling to lieback to corner in/on the flake. Follow the flake/corner to its top (actually a large pillar) and a fixed anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.9+) 60': Gain the obvious horizontal and hand traverse right approximately 15' (3" piece) until you are below a left-rising ramp. Climb delicately to a stance (loose rock potential) below the ramp and climb the ramp to a short overhanging open book with an incipienct finger/tips crack. Climb this crack (crux) to gain the Overture ramp right below the 4' vertical step on that climbs second pitch.
Pitch 3 (5.6) 70': An awkward 5.6 move clears the 4' head wall. Follow the ramp to it's end at a dinner table sized ledge with a half-inch crack in its floor. Overture drops down and then goes climber's left from this ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.10c) 70': To the right of the dinner table ledge, climb the orange lichen covered rock in the open-book/corner to an alcove beneath a large roof. Undercling out and climb the tiered roof system to the top.
Pitch 1 (5.9) 75': Climb the right side of the flake at the base and gain the right-facing corner. Technical climbing with a thuggish move brings you to a ledge with a left-rising tips crack in a mini right-facing corner. Follow this to the obvious humangous overlap/right-facing flake. Move right making physical moves transitioning from undercling to lieback to corner in/on the flake. Follow the flake/corner to its top (actually a large pillar) and a fixed anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.9+) 60': Gain the obvious horizontal and hand traverse right approximately 15' (3" piece) until you are below a left-rising ramp. Climb delicately to a stance (loose rock potential) below the ramp and climb the ramp to a short overhanging open book with an incipienct finger/tips crack. Climb this crack (crux) to gain the Overture ramp right below the 4' vertical step on that climbs second pitch.
Pitch 3 (5.6) 70': An awkward 5.6 move clears the 4' head wall. Follow the ramp to it's end at a dinner table sized ledge with a half-inch crack in its floor. Overture drops down and then goes climber's left from this ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.10c) 70': To the right of the dinner table ledge, climb the orange lichen covered rock in the open-book/corner to an alcove beneath a large roof. Undercling out and climb the tiered roof system to the top.
Location
Start: Approximately 25 feet left of the big cedar tree right before the wide open debris field at the base of Overture & Prelude. At a right-facing corner with a big flake at its base.
Descent: The closet option is to rappel the climber's right side of the cliff, refer to the main page for directions and other options.
Descent: The closet option is to rappel the climber's right side of the cliff, refer to the main page for directions and other options.
1 Comment