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Ideas for climbing trip in the Fall

Original Post
Jon C. Sullivan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 30

Howdy friends,
So, I am trying to put together some ideas for a 4ish week Fall climbing trip that I am most likely doing with one to three other people (some may come and go through out the trip) and so far my objectives are: Yosemite: RNWF Half Dome in a day, Triple Direct of El Cap, other various YNP cragging (any routes we can't miss please feel free to share, up to hardish 11 on gear, though I don't know how that will transfer over to the Valley considering it is all pretty stout from my understanding). Utah: good chunk of time in the Creek but we need no input here. We frequent the area. Zion however, is a place I have yet to climb and am stoked on some things I have seen but would like to hear from anyone who knows of some things we must climb. Grand Tetons: If weather permits, we will be spending some time on the Grand itself. Thats all I have so far. This is a very rough idea so far so any radical ideas you may have please share!
Cheers,
Jon S.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

That looks like a good list of places to visit for a several month trip, not a 4 week trip. To get the most out of the trip, you should really dial back the number of crags to visit. If I were you, I'd just spend the whole trip in the Valley. This will give you the time you need to learn the area and adjust to climbing there (since it sound like you've never been), to have multiple chances on your planned objectives (if neccesary), and to really get a feel for the scene. Anything less than 3 weeks in the Valley is just a teaser recon trip. At most, pair the Valley with a week-ish at one other destination

Also, if you are really psyched on getting in some time in an alpine zone, go to the high Sierra, not the Tetons. It will be more on-the-way (less driving, since you'll already be going to the Valley), the rock quality is higher, and the late season weather should be more predictable than it is in the Tetons. Just keep an eye on the forecast; the pacific storms start rolling in in October, but usually there is a few days warning. If you get stormed on in the mountains or in Yosemite, Bishop is a nice, dry backup plan; a good place to hang out and climb while you wait for the other stuff to dry out.

Jon C. Sullivan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 30

Yeah I talked about this last night, the timing I mean. I agree that more time is needed in the valley and that the Sierras would make more sense than the Tetons. I think 2+ in the Valley with a finishing weekish in the Creek and perhaps sneaking in some time in the Sierras (thinking some Hulk routes). I appreciate your thoughts man, very helpful, thank you.
Cheers

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

I'd either start or finish the trip in Zion with Yosemite being the meat and potatoes of the trip. If you've spent a fair amount of time in the creek then you're well prepared for Zion. I would highly recommend you go there as the fall is perfect, and all routes are open for climbing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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