suggestions for first Yosemite trip in May
|
A buddy and I are making our first trip to the Valley in mid-May. We're solid at 5.9-5.10, maybe a little more on a good day, and are looking for some suggestions for routes to check out. Unfortunately, we dont have the gear or the know-how (yet) to do any overnight big wall stuff, so we're mostly looking for car-to-car style adventures. |
|
Braille Book is excellent , stout and sometimes wide 5.8 . But only like 5 or 6 pitches . It's a good barometer to judge how quick you are able to move , including a longer approach and descent . |
|
DEET 100 |
|
Climb The Cathedral Spires. Very cool & very fun. |
|
What Vincent said, Braille Book is an excellent route. NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral is another excellent choice, but it's a long day for most people. |
|
Lots of good single pitch 5.10s in Church Bowl, which is also the site of Bishop's Terrace, a classic 5.8, 2 pitch or long single pitch. Next to Jam crack (5.9) are two of my favorite climbs, lazy bum and bummer, 10c and 10d. They are in the lower Yosemite falls area. Also nearby is the 5 open books area which has some classics like Committment, Surprise and some others in the 5.9 and lower range. |
|
Wow! Thank you all for the detailed responses. A few of these were on my radar (Serenity/Sons, Nutcracker) but I've got quite the ticklist now for the trip. |
|
if you're not aid climbing you'll be fine... still some aliens are nice |
|
Hard to make suggestions unless we know what you've whittled your list down to. Hard to go wrong with the standard classics: |
|
You can buy offset DMM nuts in the valley at the gear shop and I highly recommend them. They are not a necessity, but really nice. You'll slot them all over the place, particularly on serenity and nutcracker and Penelope's. I'd get those before you throw down on the cams (which are also awesome). |
|
I've had several trips to the valley, including one trip up the south face of washington column without offsets, you'll be fine. I do like TCU's they fit in pin scars really well and are just as good as regular cams in parallel cracks. |
|
BGraham wrote: Between my rack and my partners we've got at least doubles in most sizes, but no offsets. Funds are tight, and I realistically dont know how much I would use offsets where I typically climb. Can you get by without a set for a week in the Valley, or are they too essential to pass up?In terms of off-sets, You will use them a ton in the valley, basically anywhere a pin has been placed they are perfect. That said I tend to place them more than regular stoppers even at the local crags as well, lots of times (not just occasionally) they just seem to fit and seat better. The most useful sizes are the 3 smallest aluminum and the 3 biggest brass. Certainly, you don't "need" them, but they are very nice to have. |
|
Definitely do Super Slide if Serenity has people on it. Good climb that goes fast as well. Don't forget to check out the Devils bath rub at the base of the big water streak lookers right of Royal Arches. |
|
Greg G wrote:Definitely do Super Slide if Serenity has people on it. Good climb that goes fast as well. Don't forget to check out the Devils bath rub at the base of the big water streak lookers right of Royal Arches.X2 what Greg said. I loved Super Slide. It is an excellent route with a great finishing pitch of beautiful crack. You also get the added benefit of hearing all the people struggle on serenity crack which is nearby. |
|
LeeAB wrote: In terms of off-sets, You will use them a ton in the valley, basically anywhere a pin has been placed they are perfect. That said I tend to place them more than regular stoppers even at the local crags as well, lots of times (not just occasionally) they just seem to fit and seat better. The most useful sizes are the 3 smallest aluminum and the 3 biggest brass. Certainly, you don't "need" them, but they are very nice to have.I think the OP was referring to offset cams, which are way more expensive... As to offsets (of either kind), they will not be necessary for the routes that you will be getting on (moderate trade routes). A standard rack,like what you have already, is fine. A big cam or two can be nice for some routes that have wideness. If you want to get something offset, getting a few offset nuts is a much more reasonable investment than buying a set of hybrid aliens. |
|
Fat Dad wrote: Royal Arches to South Dome is great but the upper part of Royal Arches will be pretty soggy in May.He means that South Face of North Dome. Royal Arches to South Face of North Dome is an incredible moderate linkup. Royal Arches to Crest Jewel (also on North Dome) is an even better linkup. Ask around about Royal Arches wetness first...it depends on the year how wet it will be. The best way to do either linkup is to do it when the Tioga Road is open, since hiking the descent from the top of North Dome all the way back to the Valley sucks. North Dome Gully really sucks. Instead, if the road is open, it is a mellow 1 hour hike on a trail to the Tioga Road, and a pretty easy 1 hour hitchhike back to the Valley. mountainproject.com/v/south… |
|
Sorry, a lot of these routes are piles. |
|
JCM wrote: He means that South Face of North Dome.Yes he does. Sorry, that kind of got mushed together. Also, I meant to write when recommending the E. Butt of El Cap that it's not the best early season climb. Depending on how much water is coming down Horsetail Falls, it can be too wet to climb past pitch 5 or so. |
|
this is gold- thank you guys for all the input. I've been checking the NPS site for the tioga pass and it looks like they're not going to be considering opening before Memorial day this year, so may have to save some of these routes for another trip. But with this list I think we should be more than occupied in the Valley for our time there. Im gonna hold off on offsets and see how far our standard rack takes us. Thanks again, and ill be sure to post some pics following the trip! |