Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Nicojah
Page Views: 1,088 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nico Parco on Apr 12, 2013
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Description Suggest change

Armora Gedel's most popular trad climb. Climbers need a full rack for Oyster Nuts. The climb starts 2 meters left of Cracked Wheat and angles diagonal left through a series of vertical crack systems. Though the foto shows a lot of plants, there really are no longer any plants on the line itself. It has been cleaned by the people who put up the line and has been climbed dozens of times.

The first pitch usually ends at a two bolt anchor, some 20m from the ground. If you plant to climb the second pitch there is another anchor about 5m higher, climber's left and up, on a big ledge with grass and plants every which way.

The first pitch is sustained 5.9 climbing with no serious crux and has plenty of protection on high quality basalt for all types of gear.

The second pitch follows an obvious finger crack on climber's right that leads to a even more obvious, crescent-shaped crack that is sometimes flaring, sometimes perfect hand crack.

Don't miss the 2nd pitch as it's more fun than the 1st and very straight forward, crack-delightful climbing. There are face holds, crack holds and varies sizes of pro throughout.

The name comes from a Norwegian climber who made one of the first ground up ascents at Amora Gedel. At some point below where the anchors are today, he left a couple nuts and came down. Before being cleaned, the line was very hairy with plants and dirt. Adventure climbing in Ethiopia!

Location Suggest change

Starts to the left of Cracked Wheat. Can either start in an obvious big crack or a little to the right where there are various right-facing cracks and aretes.

Protection Suggest change

Full rack.

2 bolt anchors with chains.

Photos

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