Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: David Sampson and Arjun Heimsath
Page Views: 1,504 total · 11/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Apr 8, 2013
Admins: Aaron Mc, Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start up the prominent arete leading up the northeast side of Proto Pipe. There are two bolts down relatively low, just above the easy to get to ledge, to help you locate the climb and protect the initial stretch of the arete. Stay on the crest of the arete and climb through tricky gear and some slight runout with moderate climbing to get to a small nut protected committing bulge/roof move. This is the crux. You've got good gear at your feet and if you've got the right size nut it should be bomber. Getting there is not for the timid though as it's a bit runout on slightly crunchy rock above the last bolt. Once above the crux it's mellower climbing with ample protection, but use your long slings to avoid rope drag as it's a long way to the top. The anchor will become visible once you go through the last wide crack chimney system.

Two bolt anchor with quick links and chain links in place. Single rope rap west to the base of the Proto Pipe climb start. You can also traverse around the top of this spire to get onto the anchors for Proto Pipe.

Location Suggest change

The northeast arete of the Proto Pipe massif. Walk straight south from the base of Totem Pole to get to the start of this.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack of cams, with some small ones for sure, plenty of long draws, at least a few small nuts (BD #3, I believe) like you'd take for the top of Totem Pole. 4 bolts help you through the lower, poorly protected section.

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