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By Jay Harrison
Apr 11, 2013
The right flank of the Lower Measles Wall currently (2013) holds the only collection of 100% bolted (i.e. "Sport") routes on Crane Mountain. And they are pretty sporty at that: improper clipping or belay can result in ground falls. In general, do NOT attempt to clip a bolt unless your feet are solid (good luck with that here), and do NOT attempt clipping overhead - very, very bad idea in most cases. And belay studiously.
Please be aware that these routes are HARD for most folks on their first visit. Arm strength won't do much here, poise, balance, timing, and toe-work are crucial. 5.8s here feel like 5.11s to most gym-oriented climbers. It takes awhile to get used to the style these walls demand. Expect to fry your calves and toes learning the routine here. It may be painful, but it will also make you a better climber.
Please be aware that the Measles Walls, while providing good climbing, end up being more distraction from the better, longer options available another ten minutes along the East Path. Don't stall out here; rather move along to something like Oddy's, then play on these routes at day's end.
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