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Different Types of Harnesses?

Original Post
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

So I bought my first harness today and while I was at EMS, I noticed that it said "All-Around" on the tag, and the guy was asking me what kind of climbing I'd be using it for and if I'd transition to outdoor soon (I'm climbing indoor and have been for about a monthor two, so I'm a newb). And previously, before I bought my harness, I looked up different models from Petzl and Black Diamond and Camp and Arc'teryx. And this question sounds really stupid, but why do they have different models? Does an alpine harness really have a different purpose than an ice climbing harness? What about trad. v. sport? Are they that different? Or gym and sport? Like, are the differences THAT significant? If so, can someone tell me the major differences between 'em?

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

The differences are largely invented by the companies so they can sell more of them

In general sport harnesses are light weight (less padding) and may lack gear loops, trad harnesses are heavier (more padding) and have more gear loops, and a true alpine harness lacks padding (because you have so many layers and won't be hanging in it much-- you hope) and often has a different entry system.

In practice you can climb on anything--though if you planning on singing tenor or having children, I would avoid an alpine bod type for everyday use.

Jim

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Matt R wrote: Like, are the differences THAT significant?
Not really, but some differences still exist.

A "sport" harness will be of lighter build (presumably to allow freer movement), and have less gear loops (since you aren't carrying a rack).

A "trad" harness will usually be a bit more padded (for hanging belays, etc.), and have more gear loops

A "ice" harness will usually have adjustable leg loops (to accomodate various thciknesses in pants) and may have a special attatchment for holding ice screws.

A "big wall" harness is the most specialized, with tons of padding.

Really, though, any general, all-purpose harness of good design will do the job in 98% of circumstances.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

"Significant" is a relative term. All in all, the differences aren't that great. Some big wall harnesses are very padded for long hang times. Some alpine harnesses have minimal padding, since you might be wearing more layers, which could provide for some padding. Some ice climbing/alpine harness have an "Ice Clipper" doohickey gear loop for screws.

They're mostly all interchangeable and can be used for any climbing.

Detachable leg loops, number of gear loops, etc. - there are lots of bells and whistles, but in the end, they all do the same main function.

Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for the replies, everyone! So there's just a lack of gear loops on a sport harness when compared to a trad harness and a big wall has a ton more than an alpine. Got it. Thanks. And then ice harnesses have a spot for ice screws. Why can't you just carry ice screws some other way?

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Fit and comfort are the main criteria for my harness choices.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

just dont wear a mountaineering harness doing anything but mountaineering and youll be all set.

Taking a whipper in a black diamond couloir would be excruciatingly painful.

Nick Venechuk · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 60
superkick wrote:just dont wear a mountaineering harness doing anything but mountaineering and youll be all set. Taking a whipper in a black diamond couloir would be excruciatingly painful.
Did that last year in a Couloir and I was spared the "Alpine Squeeze" by cleverly flipping upside-down during the fall.
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Nick Venechuk wrote: Did that last year in a Couloir and I was spared the "Alpine Squeeze" by cleverly flipping upside-down during the fall.
Is the "Alpine Squeeze" do to lack of padding?
Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78
Matt R wrote:And then ice harnesses have a spot for ice screws. Why can't you just carry ice screws some other way?
They don't have a spot for ice screws. They have a spot for ice screw clips, which are basically specialized plastic carabiners make for ice screws. They make it massively easier to remove ice screws from your harness with one hand while wearing gloves. Gloves and cold make dexterity very difficult. Plus you can't really use your teeth as an intermediary like other gear (steel parts + cold = Christmas Story). You want to grab a screw off your harness in as close to the position in your hand as you are going to place it, and these facilitate that.
Nick Venechuk · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 60
Matt R wrote: Is the "Alpine Squeeze" do to lack of padding?
Partly lack of padding and partly the design of the leg loops. On your standard leg loop/swami harness the leg loops tighten horizontally around your leg and can ride up but rarely ride IN. The Couloir and the Alpine Bod are more of a diaper design and when the harness is loaded the leg loops are pulled in as well as up. This is what creates that unpleasant "sterilization by gravity" sensation in the Alpine Bod and similar harnesses. It's not a very popular design any more unless you need a harness you can get in and out of with skis/crampons/etc.
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
shoo wrote: They don't have a spot for ice screws. They have a spot for ice screw clips, which are basically specialized plastic carabiners make for ice screws. They make it massively easier to remove ice screws from your harness with one hand while wearing gloves. Gloves and cold make dexterity very difficult. Plus you can't really use your teeth as an intermediary like other gear (steel parts + cold = Christmas Story). You want to grab a screw off your harness in as close to the position in your hand as you are going to place it, and these facilitate that.
I see, that answers my questions about that! Thanks a lot for clearing it up.
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Nick Venechuk wrote: Partly lack of padding and partly the design of the leg loops. On your standard leg loop/swami harness the leg loops tighten horizontally around your leg and can ride up but rarely ride IN. The Couloir and the Alpine Bod are more of a diaper design and when the harness is loaded the leg loops are pulled in as well as up. This is what creates that unpleasant "sterilization by gravity" sensation in the Alpine Bod and similar harnesses. It's not a very popular design any more unless you need a harness you can get in and out of with skis/crampons/etc.
Yeah..and I don't ice climb, so I don't need one. And I want to have children, so I really don't need one. That makes sense. Thanks Nick.
Matt Roberts · · Columbus, OH · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 85
Matt R wrote: Is the "Alpine Squeeze" do to lack of padding?
More due to not having all of the furniture in the same room.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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