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Approach Pitch
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 1 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,440 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Isaac Tait on Feb 18, 2008 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024
Details
Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The climb starts on obvious chicken heads following a fairly prominent groove. The first 30 feet is 5.5 and then it is a class 4 scramble up to the wide crack. From there you make your way onto a ramp. There are two cruxes on the route, the first is climbing the wide ramp that gets progessivly narrower on grainy rock that has your feet skittering off. Once you have begun lay backing your way up the crack the second crux comes at you fast. The route is not well traveled therefore the rock is fairly loose and lichen is growing in the crack. The crack peters out and you are faced with a 20 foot run out on Joshua Tree slab. The rock quality on most of the route is very grainy, loose, and sandy (especially at the cruxes).
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