Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton, Matt Simpson, FFA: Ben Rueck & Rob Pizem
Page Views: 2,684 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

It has fine climbing on good rock with an excellent view of Rough Canyon and Grand Mesa from a very small, 1 person summit. It is located near Grand Junction, east of Colorado National Monument. The route ascends an obvious crack system on the east face.

Pitch 1. Begin on a thin crack (A1/C1), follow this until a blocky section is reached (5.7), then to a good belay ledge atop a large block, 120 feet (37m).

Pitch 2. Climb a fist crack (5.8) to a large, bombay chimney. Move left around a huge fin inside the chimney, and climb some offwidth and squeeze to a small roof, (5.9). Move through the roof (5.11), then traverse left, and climb 30 unprotected feet (9m) up a squeeze chimney (The Time Warp), then past some loose rock to a 2 drilled-pin belay at the saddle, 5.9R. 150 feet (46m).

Pitch 3. Beaks in drilled holes and a couple of knifeblades get you to a 2 drilled-pin anchor 10 feet (3m) below the summit, (A1). Scramble to the summit with a leash.

Descent: rap to the anchors at the saddle at the top of the 2nd pitch. Rap to the west, to the saddle between the tower and the wall. Scramble down and to the north to some webbing around a large block on the opposite side of the gully. Rap to the ground.

Location Suggest change

Park at the Tabeguache Trail parking area and hike 1/4 mile (.4 km) south on a rough road to a small canyon. Go left or east, following this canyon about 1/2 mile (.8 km) to where the canyon joins the large valley of Rough Canyon; some scrambling down will be involved. Tabeguache Tower will be obvious at this point, 10 minutes up the hill to the south. The tower is also visible from the rim of the canyon, a short hike down the Tabeguache trail.

Protection Suggest change

Rack: Standard desert rack with 3 #4 Camalots, 1 #5 Camalot, 2 #4 Big Bros, 3 KBs, 6 baby angles (1/2"), 2 5/8" angles, 3 Bird Beaks.

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