Knot at the end of a rope for rappel
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I like to tie knots in the end of the ropes when I rap, but I worry about forgetting to untie the knots before I start pulling the rope(s) down. Are there any safety concerns in tying both ends of the rope(s) into one knot when using an ATC device? |
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Generally this will cause twists in the rope. |
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I've never had a problem with the rope twisting while using an ATC. If I use an 8, twists become an issue but I typically tie my ends together and it works for me. Shawn C wrote:PM me for all your MP forum post artwork needs.Could I get a sloth telling me "YER GONNA DIE"? |
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Please tell your friends. |
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more chance of getting yr rope stuck |
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Shawn C wrote:Please tell your friends.I'm taking this and heading to my local tattoo parlor RIGHT NOW |
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After years of climbing at places like Red Rock, I've decided that the best way for me to handle this is to tie an overhand-on-a-bight on each strand and clip them to my gear loops. One on each side. |
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You can also (instead of changing your usual way) take some time daily while driving, laying in bed, at work, walking, whenever to visualize your rappel technique. Just like muscle memory you can alter your thoughts and go from effort to effortless. Visualize yourself always remembering to untie the ends and it'll be embedded by your next rapp experience, IF you put effort into it. |
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Regardless of whether or not you tie a knot in the ends, you should force yourself to watch the far end of your rope as it passes by you while you're pulling. It's a super easy habit that will save you some serious hassle one day. |
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Shawn C wrote:Please tell your friends. [image of cliff sloth]Mega-like! |
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Shawn C wrote:Please tell your friends.AWESOME |
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First, you calmly identified the problem at hand. |
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hahah awesome diagrams...very informative |
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AHAHAHAHAHAHAH AWSOMENESS! shawn u made my morning... thnx man! |
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if you're gonna tie, quit being a baby and tie each end separate like everyone else. That sloth pic is awesome!!! I love it! for multipitch, i often prefer not tying because I worry the rope is more likely to get caught and that will cause more problems. |
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stanley 250 wrote:...for multipitch, i often prefer not tying because I worry the rope is more likely to get caught and that will cause more problems.So, in the scenario with the highest potential risk of rappelling off the ends, you prefer not to tie the ends? |
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I used to always tie both ends of the rope together for multiple rappels. The only bad thing about this method is having to manage both rope ends for the knot - you could flake the rope at the rap anchor while you thread it so you have both ends to tie together. I would always rig the rope for a rappel with the rope ends hanging, then pull them up, tie them together, and drop again - it was a bunch of wasted time and energy. |
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Nice work on the drawings, Shawn C. That is seriously the best thing I have ever seen on Mtn Proj. Also, I look forward to THE SHAMING, as I think I might know who it was. |
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Lower the first climber if the rap is slabby or windy. All the others rap as usual. If the first one gets stuck in the rap rings when you pull the rope, it means you forgot to untie them. |
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BGardner wrote:After years of climbing at places like Red Rock, I've decided that the best way for me to handle this is to tie an overhand-on-a-bight on each strand and clip them to my gear loops. ...It depends on the exact situation but this is an excellent method and I also use it loads. |
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Shawn C wrote:First, you calmly identified the problem at hand. Then Jimmy McMillan showed up and was a pessimistic dickwad. But Slash blasted a killer 80's hair ballad that made you think of unicorns. Stallone arrived and belayed himself to retrieve the rope. ...and Chuck Norris kicked the shit out of your forgetful friend.LOL, the "Rent is too damn high" guy cameo was the best. |