Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Glenwood Canyon Ice
|
Alcatraz T M11 |
|
|
Deep Throat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5-6 M7 |
|
Glenwood Falls - Left / Right / Center WI4-5 |
|
|
Glenwood Falls Far Right WI4-5 |
|
|
Hidden Falls WI4-5 |
|
|
Hidden Falls (Secret 4th Pitch) WI4 |
|
|
Leftmost Corner at Hidden Falls WI5+ M5+ |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Mixed, Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,635 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Gillest on Jan 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2020 and on access issues
Details
Per Michael Schneiter: it's worth noting that access to climbs in Glenwood Canyon is difficult to impossible currently. Following this summer's Grizzly Creek fire the exits and rest areas for Grizzly Creek, Shoshone and Hanging Lake have been and remain closed. The bike path is also closed. That leaves climbers with no great option for parking and climbing Hidden Falls, Glenwood Falls and the others. There may be some workarounds, but they aren't easy.
Description
Park at the Shoshone rest area, underneath I-70.
(Follow directions to Hidden Falls)
When approaching Hidden Falls, there is a wide crack system left of the main ice. Starting from the same platform as climbing Hidden Falls.
We believe that if the candle is not hanging on the first pitch, this route will be a lot harder due to the poor rock quality.
Pitch 1 -
The candle was hanging enough to get onto the ice, a pin protects the candle move. The pin is placed in a downward position (the pin was there when we climbed the route) and should be considered very suspect! The rock moves to get into the position to transfer to the candle, are relatively easy, but the rock quality is very poor. We knocked off a fair amount of rock in the process. Once on the candle, make a few moves and it backs off. Next step is relatively easy 4+, with a huge rest before starting up. The 3rd step is harder and longer, maybe 5 or 5+. Belay about 180-200 feet up, after 3rd step, chockstone belay in the chimney.
Pitch 2 -
In our opinion, there were 2 exits to finish this route.
Exit 1 -
Left side corner, continue up staying near the rock on continuous ice, after 70 feet connect hanging candle to get up to the true mixed exit, grade WI6 M hard.
Exit 2 -
Right side face, continue up and left staying right of large hanging candle, connect to detached curtain, finish on ice, WI6.
We followed Exit 1, and we did not get onto the hanging candle, top out for us was 70 feet above the first belay, making it WI5+ M5+.
(Follow directions to Hidden Falls)
When approaching Hidden Falls, there is a wide crack system left of the main ice. Starting from the same platform as climbing Hidden Falls.
We believe that if the candle is not hanging on the first pitch, this route will be a lot harder due to the poor rock quality.
Pitch 1 -
The candle was hanging enough to get onto the ice, a pin protects the candle move. The pin is placed in a downward position (the pin was there when we climbed the route) and should be considered very suspect! The rock moves to get into the position to transfer to the candle, are relatively easy, but the rock quality is very poor. We knocked off a fair amount of rock in the process. Once on the candle, make a few moves and it backs off. Next step is relatively easy 4+, with a huge rest before starting up. The 3rd step is harder and longer, maybe 5 or 5+. Belay about 180-200 feet up, after 3rd step, chockstone belay in the chimney.
Pitch 2 -
In our opinion, there were 2 exits to finish this route.
Exit 1 -
Left side corner, continue up staying near the rock on continuous ice, after 70 feet connect hanging candle to get up to the true mixed exit, grade WI6 M hard.
Exit 2 -
Right side face, continue up and left staying right of large hanging candle, connect to detached curtain, finish on ice, WI6.
We followed Exit 1, and we did not get onto the hanging candle, top out for us was 70 feet above the first belay, making it WI5+ M5+.
3 Comments