Proper Ice Axe length for a 6'5" tall?
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I am looking to upgrade my old ice axe and get a lighter one. The current one Ive been using for over 10 years is from REI and its heavy. I love it to death but its time to start looking for something that I can carry into alpine territory. Its main use will be for crossing steep snowfields in the Sierra. I just started ice climbing and I have ice tools so a super technical one is not necessary. |
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The trekking poles with picks are called "whippets" they're primarily for back country skiing and are irreplaceable in that regard. They might serve some function in other arenas, but I don't see the point. |
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randy88fj62, I think it's primarily a matter of personal preference. I'm 6'5" and when I first got more serious about alpine pursuits 15 years ago, I read the advice of others and started rocking an 80cm mountain ax. That turned out to be lame. Sure it was nice on gentle glaciers but the extra length was ridiculous for plunging the shaft on steeper terrain. I've only used 65cm axes since then. FWIW, I'm a big fan of the Black Diamond Raven Pro ice ax. |
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A mountaineering guide by the name of Andy I know used to answer this question more in terms of what your preference is. If you have ever gone out with a really short axe, you know that it's easy to pack and deal with and works fine for steep routes and in firm snow where the axe doesn't need to plunge that deep for self-belays. For soft snow and lower angle ice, a longer axe would work better. There's no real "wrong" axe length. |
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The length of my current "old" axe is pretty good. I'd love to find another axe of the same length but new and made with a lighter tube. I could go a little shorter but I haven't found one close to the length of my old one. Seems all newer axes are for "technical" mountaineering and no one offers longer ones. The closest I have found is petzl's classic one which is 66cm max. |
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Many serious and professional mountaineers use the black diamond whippet for self arrest / glacier treavel purposes instead of a mountaineering axe. Colin Haley rocks one to name somebody. |
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Ben B - might want to rethink that strategy as it'll get you killed if you are roped up and someone falls into a crevasse in low angle terrain. The only times I have ever needed to self arrest has been on less than 20 degree terrain when a partner punched through a hidden crevasse. |
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I'm not quite as tall as you are, but I have a 75cm, Austrialpine mountain (straight) axe. I think it's the simple 1 model from a couple years back. since using it, I'm not too sure I like other axes I've tried as much. |
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I'm 6'6" and before I sold it used a 75 cm ax. Now I use a single bd venom (it's either 50 or 57 cm, I can't remember which, but my gut says 50 cm) with a trekking poles whenever I go on glacier slogs. for steep parts I switch one of the poles out for the ax and gentile stuff I just use both poles, if there's crevasse danger though the ax stays out, I can stop myself in a slide with a trekking pole but I'm not so sure about stopping someone of the other end of a rope. Never actually had to stop someone who punched through though yet so who knows. |
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. Looks like a standard length ice axe should fit the bill for steeper snow travel in the Sierra. |
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This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
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Wanted to follow up on where I ended up. I bought a Petzl Sum Tec and now have no trouble rocking the short ice axe. It's light and working well. I don't think I'll ever go back to a long axe unless crossing flat glaciers. |
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good to know that the shorter axe works for bigger guys, I run with some big guys who are getting more into mountaineering and are gonna have to be getting this type of gear soon. Im only 6'1" so I wouldn't know what to recommend to them. |