Rope Soloing Ice
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I tr solo with a gri-gri on a single fixed strand. I tie back up knots every now and then. I don't clip my knots, but figure they'll act as stoppers if my gri gri were to fail. I've never had trouble with it not gripping on the rope though, even on my 9.1mm dry treated rope. |
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I use minitraxion on a single strand with long sling around my shoulders to keep the device up. I've used it a lot for both rock and ice and have never had an issue. |
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The mini traxon is the way to go on a icy rope. I have used this with a fixed line and a back pack to weight the other end but still pull it up if i want. I place my traxon at my waist some times with a screamer and just push it up with my knee when i move. |
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garrettem wrote:It is also recommended that you use a steel locking carabiner to your belay loop.Why? |
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Regarding the mini traxion, this is from Petzl's Website. |
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Sorry should have specified a D shaped steel locking. I recommend a steel locking carabiner because they typically come in shapes that allow the minitraxion to track better and keep the biner from flipping the minitraxion onto the gate compared to aluminum carabiners that have higher angles and somewhat odd curves to them. Probably just personal preference. |
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John D wrote:I tr solo with a gri-gri on a single fixed strand. I tie back up knots every now and then. I don't clip my knots, but figure they'll act as stoppers if my gri gri were to fail. I've never had trouble with it not gripping on the rope though, even on my 9.1mm dry treated rope. I would prefer a system that self feeds, like an ascender or mini trax, but I don't tr solo enough to buy dedicated gear, and I'd rather not tr solo on my ascenders.I've done exactly this method and never had problems. I like the lead simulation because I hang from one hand and tie a knot with the other (teeth too). I figure if I can do that, I can drill a screw and clip it. Kevin Having a partner is fun too, I like the social aspect just as much as the work out aspect. |
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JohnnyG wrote:It's a great way to log a lot of vertical mileage without freezing or boring your partner. No better way for training, IMO. (I refer to TR solo, not lead solo) I anchor the rope in the middle, and drop both sides of the rope. Clip a mini-traxion to one strand and an ascender to the other strand. Has worked great for me, runs smoothly. I just got a petzl shunt, which I plan to use instead of the ascender.I have used the set up that JohnnyG mentions (on a top rope for rock) and it works very well. I enjoy climbing alone and feel that on ice one would have to be especially careful (be it roped soling or on belay with a partner) that ANY fall has THE potential for broken ankles. I had a close friend break his ankle in the 80's while top roping on vertical ice when he fell and snagged a crampon on the way down. With that said - at least on rock - I use a Petzl Ascension on 1 strand of rope from above and a Mini-Traxion on a 2nd (totally separate) strand of rope from above - and it works well. Both move freely - I have redundancy in case either device fails AND 2 entirely separate strands of dynamic rope in case one was to be inadvertently cut. I would assume this would work just as well for top roping on ice. I admit lead climbing roped solo in ice would be a bit more sketchy... |
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I recently had my mini-traction ice up and stay in the open position...not so good for catching a fall, eh? It was only one time among 100+ times of using this method, but still notable. |
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JohnnyG wrote:I recently had my mini-traction ice up and stay in the open position...not so good for catching a fall, eh? It was only one time among 100+ times of using this method, but still notable. So I'm a renewed proponent of have a true back-up. Lately, I've been using a petzl mini-traction on one line and a petzl shunt on another line. It's been working well. This follows one of petzl recommended set-ups pretty pretty closely.JohnnyG, Yup - that's why I use TWO separate devices for backups. If the 1 device fails I have a 2nd in place. |
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I enjoy TR soling ice. I find it a lot more chill than TR coloing rock, things generally feel less tenuous ice climbing than rock climbing (lead mentality of your tools being solid and all that). |
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TR or Lead? |
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WOW, |
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I really have to emphasize: |
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logan johnson wrote:I really have to emphasize: DO NOT FOLLOW PORTWOOD'S LINKS ABOVE!!!! One mentions the Cole method, which is the most asinine belay system ever!Just because you wouldnt use it doesnt mean it does not work nor is it worthless information to others. I have used these systems with success. |
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OK, after reading and browsing so many rope solo threads over the years, I thought I would say... |
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The Cole method involves using your standard ATC type device with an ascender girth hitched to the harness as a replacement brake hand. |
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Good to know Logan...always wondered how often people would catch/block their Gri/Gri. I guess that's why it's always best to have the back up loops. Sure, they're a bit of a pain, but I just think of stopping to clip the loops like stopping to clip a bolt. Anyway, it works on ice too. All the best, Bruno. |
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I just got a Soloist, and will begin TR soloing as soon as my climbing partner (who has been using the Soloists for years) comes up to educate me. I'm going to back up with a shunt or Mini Traxion. My intent is to keep from abusing my rope with the teeth. So my questions are 1. any rope damage from grigri or traxion? 2. Does anyone use static rope? As I can get Edelweiss Canyon Static 9.6mm Rope cheap.I will be doing laps at a close by area to train. |
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keohan68 wrote:I just got a Soloist, and will begin TR soloing as soon as my climbing partner (who has been using the Soloists for years) comes up to educate me. I'm going to back up with a shunt or Mini Traxion. My intent is to keep from abusing my rope with the teeth. So my questions are 1. any rope damage from grigri or traxion? 2. Does anyone use static rope? As I can get Edelweiss Canyon Static 9.6mm Rope cheap.I will be doing laps at a close by area to train.I do not use a static rope as it is said that even a top rope fall onto a device could generate a lot of force onto the rope and that it should be a dynamic rope to absorb the shock of any fall - so that is what I have only used. |