All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Buttermilk Country > Buttermilks Main > Saigon Boulder

Saigon Direct

Name: Saigon Direct
Rating: 3.4

V8+ YDS 7B+ Font

Routes in Saigon Boulder

L › R R › L A › Z

	Fight Club V11 8A PG13
	Monkey Dihedral V2 5+
	Saigon V6 7A
	Saigon Direct V8+ 7B+
	Tall Edgy V0 4
	Topside V5 6C
	Unnamed V0 V0 4

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Type:	Boulder, 25 ft (8 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	3,594 total · 26/month
Shared By:	Drewsky on Jan 6, 2013
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Though not quite as classic as Saigon, this worthy line avoids the punchy Saigon crux via a direct line of holds to the left that lead to a traverse back right into the Saigon finish. In some way it seems easier than Saigon but maybe it's because I'm short. In any case, start as for Saigon. Instead of getting the left hand pinch/sidepull and heading right, move straight up from here via a couple of possible sequences to a high pinch/edge. This is where you start to feel the air beneath you a bit. Move right from this hold with difficulty and rejoin Saigon for the finish.

Location

Start as for Saigon and move right from the high pinch hold. The Superdirect (harder, scarier) goes straight up from the pinch to slopers at the very top of the prow! I think the easiest downclimb option is to your right and down the slab from where you top out. Downclimbing the V0 patina face with care is also an option.

Protection

The ground is like cement here so several pads and a really good spotter are ideal. An uncontrolled fall from the crux pinch/edge could really hurt on this one.