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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13

Matt Selman · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 200

Nathaniel, I'm not sure what it takes to form the complete Deadbolt curtain. I would bet by the end of the week the pillar will be nice and fat, at the very least. And there's enough water to get Highway to Heaven in nice shape, if the temps stay down.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

Took all these today 12/19 on my way back from the swell:

Pricecicle

Pricecicle

Bridal Veil Falls
Bridal Veil

Stairway To Heaven
Stairway

MoonMountainMan · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 275

Went to Joe's today and found the Donorcicle starting to make its presence known. The climbing was good.

The Donorcicle 12/19/12

The Donorcicle 12/19/12

The Donorcicle 12/19/12

The Donorcicle 12/19/12

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Nice!

Kevin Hansen · · Melba Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

Looks like Dirtcicle needs to heal a little bit, unless you like walking up stairs. Not surprising though with the warm temps we've had, I'd bet dirtcicle has seen more than its fair share of traffic this season.
Kevin

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
us6.campaign-archive2.com/?…

ATTN: CLIMBERS ACCESSING THE GREAT WHITE ICICLE AND OTHER AREAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF LITTLE COTTONWOOD CREEK

For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010, the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then, Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.

As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCA’s relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times! During times of low water, access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map. During times of high water, use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible, carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

So it's in?

Brian Muller · · Sandy, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

GWI- Drove by it yesterday in the light after seeing a couple headlamps on it a few mornings ago. Looks like the first 2 pitches have almost no ice. The third pitch appears to be climbable with ice, and I could barely see anything resembling ice on the last pitch. I was going to take a picture but friend was driving too quickly. It didn't look to be worth it. Curious whats going on there this year, when I hiked up a week ago there was almost no flow and it was in the 40's

Matthew Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 5

GWI is climbable but still not great. Climbed to the top of the bulge today.
-1st pitch is thin and wet.
-Snow pitch is punchy down to the rocks.
-3rd pitch (second ice pitch) is very thin but a few bulges take 10s or 13s.
-Bulge pitch is in solid and up until the west belay bolts, it looked thin after that but doable with minimal protection until towards the top

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

Has anyone driven North to look at Willard Falls by any chance?

XYZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

What are people finding is the new best approach to the GWI?

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Pretty much what the map shows below. Best parking is just west of the main lot (the main lot isn't currently isn't plowed as of tonight and is plainly marked "no parking" on the trees, etc, at the back of the lot). Cross the creek, follow the beat out trail.

dfrancom Francom · · Palmer, AK · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

Anyone seen Willard Canyon falls yet this season? Any updates would be great?

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

Went and lapped the apron on Stairway last night. It was drippy, chandeliered and thin in places. Still worth going though.

Brian Muller · · Sandy, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5
Scott Adamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 50
FA, purgatorium/Left, WI6/M7. Highway to hell, right
New route in Provo, Starts right of pitch 2 of stairway in a corner. 3 pitchs WI6/M7, Full rack to #2 camelot, don't forget the Iron/Specters. Some bolts. Enjoy!
Matt Tuttle, Scott Adamson
Room with a view

looking up the route
Climbed to 5th on stairway looking good, some of the fifth fell down, soft and juicy fell off. Be careful out there.
Martin Barnett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 95

I was wondering if you could help. I am coming to climb some Utah ice this week and I was wondering if anybody has climbed Stairway or Bridal veil yet. If so, what do the pitches go at?

Is there anything in at Maple canyon and what about Deadbolt and Melty Way. I would really appreciate any info you have. Thanx.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
Martin Barnett wrote:I was wondering if you could help. I am coming to climb some Utah ice this week and I was wondering if anybody has climbed Stairway or Bridal veil yet. If so, what do the pitches go at? Is there anything in at Maple canyon and what about Deadbolt and Melty Way. I would really appreciate any info you have. Thanx.
Read the thread. You can find out all that info in the last page.
zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

BM said: Scruffy band a little thin but starting to come in

This is really encouraging. I was beginning to think we'd never see that one again.

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

Great photos everyone.
-
GWI in LCC is in fine, one comment though...the belay area at the start of the climb has yellow pee marks everywhere. The nice platform/shoulder at the base of the Bulge has another yellow patch in the middle, right where it's nice to hang out.

Come on! It's just 10 seconds of walking to keep these areas clean...don't be a dong.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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