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Routes in Middle Spire
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Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Beautiful Let Down T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Harding's Other Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slowdancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Greg Barnes, 8 May, 2006 |
| Page Views: | 1,712 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Johnsen on Dec 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
The original route is technically a variation of Hard Up. It starts with that 5.9 lieback crack for 20 feet, then goes around the hump to the right, and up the face, trending right to finish at the bolted anchor under the roof.
On toprope, I preferred starting on the balancey arete and face section, right of the Hard Up crack start. This also avoids encroaching on climbers on that route when the rope is already hung.
On toprope, I preferred starting on the balancey arete and face section, right of the Hard Up crack start. This also avoids encroaching on climbers on that route when the rope is already hung.
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