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The Warlock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Warlock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Imaginary Voyage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sea of Tranquility T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Elevation:	7,538 ft
GPS:	36.10666, -118.47894 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	93,680 total · 431/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Admins:	Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is the awesome triple-tiered tower that crowns the end of the ridge. It is home to some of the longer, harder routes of the Needles such as The Romantic Warrior and Sea of Tranquility. A few short classics like the Howling and the Titantic are also located here. Climbs go up all sides of the Warlock, and your approach may vary depending on where you want to climb.

Decent from the summit involves rapping (two ropes) to the North.

Getting There

Climbs on the upper North, West, and East faces are accessed via the main trail. Climbs that begin on the lower reaches of the Warlock can be accessed from this point as well (via rappels), or by decending down between the Sorcerer and Witch and hiking all the way around, or by approaching from Voodoo Dome (separate trailhead). I'm not sure which way is the most expedient...

15 Total Climbs

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Location:	The Warlock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Warlock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 80 ● Imaginary Voyage Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 33 ● South Face Trad 8 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 111 ● The Howling Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 17 ● Ghostbumps Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 17 ● The Spell Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Flying Warlocks Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 4 ● S Crack Trad 10 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 8 ● Planet Waves Trad 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 9 ● Sea of Tranquility Trad 5 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 37 ● Romantic Warrior Trad 9 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 8 ● The Titanic Trad