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Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch SS anchors.  ~25m rap to ground.  Could ...
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 30, 2012
Hey Matt, I wouldn't necessarily recommend sealant on the bolts. It's my feeling sealant tends to open up enough, eventually, to allow water to seep it and then the sealant inhibits the drying out which could lead to worse free/thaw action in the hole.
Consider a short length of steel chain (five links) on each hanger, connected to the hangers with a screw link for a nice, long-lasting rap anchor.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 4, 2013
Consider the angles created by this anchor. I'm not saying this is wrong by any means. But if a length of chain is added to both so the anchors intersection (power point) has an angle closer to 50 -60 degree range. The lower the angle the lower the force applied to each anchor. A high angle of say 160 degrees multiplies the force applied to the anchor.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 4, 2013
Another note... In quality stone like this. I am a fan of stacking the bolts vertically offset to one side, instead of horizontally equal height. Setting a rap ring on the lower, and a length of chain to extend the top, down to match the lower. This places a much lower force upon both anchor points. My 2 cents...
By Matt Twyman
From: Austin, TX
Nov 5, 2013
Because of the very concern you site, we didn't apply any sealant to any of the bolts we installed.

I don't disagree with you. Had I had chain I would have supplied, but for whatever reason we only had this setup available with us that day. Feel free to replace biners & rings with chain.

By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jan 8, 2014
Well, when rapping the loads shouldn't get high enough to cause the issues described above. I am sure when you lead to this anchor a sliding X or quickdraws are deployed to lower the angle of intersection.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Sep 25, 2016
Towards assurances the rap rings do not disappear, replaced the biners with Petzl Go 7mm Steel Screw Link Maillons. Unfortunately, did not have chains with us.
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1st pitch SS anchors. ~25m rap to ground. Could use some sealant to prevent water entry / freeze. Also, if anyone's so kind, please upgrade to rap ring hangers if I don't get to it soon enough. Please don't nab biners/rap rings. Keep it nice and easy for all to use.

Submitted By: Matt Twyman on Nov 30, 2012
On this route:
Crescendo (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a )
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