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Appalachian Alpinism
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
Avg: 3.5 from 2
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Brad Woolf, Mike Barnette Oct. 2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,520 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Woolf on Mar 31, 2012 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
P1: Climb face and crack system up and left into the large corner system. Climb corner up over small bulge to the 2nd of 2 ledges and belay. 5.7 140 ft.
P2: Climb Corner up to where it it turns mossy and horizontal with a small bush sticking out. You can place a #1 and #2 Camalot here. From here traverse right and up on the face (about 15-20ft.) up to a piton we left fixed. From the pin continue up and eventually slightly left (about 30-40ft.) back into the corner where you can get gear. Follow the corner up through several small bulges to a ledge. Use large gear to construct belay anchor. 5.9R 175ft.
P3 traverse right under giant roof about 100ft. back up into the Chimney/Slot/escape hatch. Climb Chimney out. belay at small tree and some gear anchor left of the chimney on a ledge.
P4. Shorten a rope to about 100ft. and continue to bushwhack uphill a little then climb 20-60ft bulges of rock up to 5.6. Repeat this process until you hit the rock jock trail. Take the Rock Jock Trail South towards Kistler. Walk Kistler back to the car.
P2: Climb Corner up to where it it turns mossy and horizontal with a small bush sticking out. You can place a #1 and #2 Camalot here. From here traverse right and up on the face (about 15-20ft.) up to a piton we left fixed. From the pin continue up and eventually slightly left (about 30-40ft.) back into the corner where you can get gear. Follow the corner up through several small bulges to a ledge. Use large gear to construct belay anchor. 5.9R 175ft.
P3 traverse right under giant roof about 100ft. back up into the Chimney/Slot/escape hatch. Climb Chimney out. belay at small tree and some gear anchor left of the chimney on a ledge.
P4. Shorten a rope to about 100ft. and continue to bushwhack uphill a little then climb 20-60ft bulges of rock up to 5.6. Repeat this process until you hit the rock jock trail. Take the Rock Jock Trail South towards Kistler. Walk Kistler back to the car.
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