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Unsa Mani Mikko
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Cantabaco, Toledo City, Cebu
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Balite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Foot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bohemian S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bungal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cacao V2+ 5+ |
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Cantabaco S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cinnamon Pwet S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Djols S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Haight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Itchy Flutterby T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jack Sparrow S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Natre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oh Baby! S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Partner in climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pork Barrel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pumping Station S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sadako S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Son of Slash S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unnamed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unsa Mani Mikko S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Victim, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Vina Kulafu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vulva S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Flower S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Mackie Makinano |
| Page Views: | 1,099 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Rajiv Ayyangar on Oct 28, 2012 |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst |
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Description
"Unsa Mani" for short, this route can feel reachy, even if you're over 6ft. The route starts on a multi-hold with several different ways to grip it, depending on your particular strengths. Do you like pinches? pockets? underclings? crimps? You'll find many ways to do the start, but all of them are easier if you are tall.
At the second bolt, traverse right on sharp pockets, and pull a few moderate moves to the unique crux, involving a difficult clip and a large expanse of blank limestone that must be somehow bypassed. A core of steel is helpful, or failing that, a 6-foot-plus ape-index yields alternate, easier beta. If you're discouraged like I was initially, take heart: the first ascensionist stands all of 5'2" tall.
After navigating the first tufa section, get a no-hands then traverse left into a pumpy finish. If you forget footwork and try to thug your way through this, you may be in for a heartbreaker, as the top does not yield easily. The 35-foot extension is also worth doing ("Roller Coaster", 5.12c/d)
At the second bolt, traverse right on sharp pockets, and pull a few moderate moves to the unique crux, involving a difficult clip and a large expanse of blank limestone that must be somehow bypassed. A core of steel is helpful, or failing that, a 6-foot-plus ape-index yields alternate, easier beta. If you're discouraged like I was initially, take heart: the first ascensionist stands all of 5'2" tall.
After navigating the first tufa section, get a no-hands then traverse left into a pumpy finish. If you forget footwork and try to thug your way through this, you may be in for a heartbreaker, as the top does not yield easily. The 35-foot extension is also worth doing ("Roller Coaster", 5.12c/d)
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