Utah / Arizona Climbing trip advice

Hi there,

I'm a Canadian climber from Squamish heading down south in search of dry rock through the western States. I would really value some advice from American climbers on where I should go.

I love trad especially pure crack climbs, 5.9 - 10+, follow to 11+, but also enjoy clippin' bolts.

Definitely will visit Trout Creek in Oregon, and would like to end up in Moab / Indian Creek before it gets to cold.

Anything recommendations along the way? City of Rock? Little Cotton Wood Canyon?

When it gets cold, will probably head to Flagstaff/Sedona if no snow.

Where should I go after when winter hits?

I'll be leaving friday so given the weather, what's the best road trip this time of year?

Any suggestions advice would be sincerely appreciated...always looking for partners along the way too.

City of Rocks is fantastic and certainly not to be missed.

It snowed in the SLC area today, and is supposed to keep going through Thursday. However, anything on the north side (south facing) of Little Cottonwood will be dry a day or two after a snowstorm. Last winter, I was climbing in LCC all winter long!

City and LCC is probably the best route for you, but it would also be worthwhile to check out Ibex. Maybe make it a stopping point on your way back. Odds of finding a partner there are not great, though.

After Sedona you might look into Zion/St George. There's granite at Prescott.

It might be too cold in Flagstaff and Sedona. Make sure you keep your eye on the weather forecast along your trip and maybe consider heading to Southern Arizona. There are some very choice granite and limestone areas.

Best of Luck,
Fellow climber.

From City of Rocks facebook page:

Raining hard this morning; very dark - snow at Bath Rock and higher. Looks like the second side of fall is rearing its head! But we need the rain.

We're in a wintery mix here, with, folks waxing the boards. Talking about snow to the valley floor in the short term.

I'd recommend looking at some weather forecasts a bit prior to launch.

Southern Utah looks fab.

Ideal climbing conditions on south facing walls in Little and Big Cottonwood canyons right now. But that will only last till Friday, and another storm will hit.
Southern Utah is generally a safe bet. Keep your eye on the weather for Indian creek, San Rafael Swell, Zion, St George area (snow canyon). If you need to keep going south, Red Rock Nevada is fantastic and almost always dry.

If you've never been and it isnt raining, index, Washington has the best granite cracks I've ever climbed. probably very similar to squamish. Trout creek has the best splitters short of the creek. I would skip the salt lake area and head straight for the Moab area if it were me. I've also heard really good things about the water fall area in oak creek canyon North of sedona. have fun!

My advice would be to stay out of Utah. It's full of mormons and shitty beer. Sweet climbing doesn't make up for that.

cold cheese strong mold !!!!!! sedona!!!! IC FOR SURE but watch the weather in the creek this time of year .... it snow"s but if yer Canadian you should be fine....

Reginald McChufferton wrote:My advice would be to stay out of Utah. It's full of mormons and shitty beer. Sweet climbing doesn't make up for that.

yes it does. Hop Rising.. by squatters brewery.. 9.0 abv and 75 IBU's. or wait. oregon has precedent on beer... and assholes. have fun at smith and trout creek... and ... oh wait that's it. quit being an asshole. i voted for obama... it's okay dude.

epicbrewing.com/awards-and-…

Reginald McChufferton wrote:My advice would be to stay out of Utah. It's full of mormons and shitty beer. Sweet climbing doesn't make up for that.

I have found Mormons and shitty beer in every state of the Union as well as Canada.
So you may as as well just climb and look for good beer.
If Flag and or Sedona are a little on the chilly side head to Prescott and climb at Granite Mt. I used to get away with climbing there in the dead of winter and the rock quality is quite good. Also there is a lot to do around the 5.9 to hard 10 range.
cheers

Flagstaff can be doable this time of year depending on the weather. Paradise Forks is the primary destination but The Pit is ok sport climbing and warmer (not exactly a destination though). Lots of adventure climbing in Sedona. If you want to get on long routes, November can be a great time to go to Granite Mountain in Prescott (weather permitting).

Ze Mountain