Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: JF & SA, 1990
Page Views: 2,747 total · 20/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Oct 23, 2012
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Magnus Veritas ascends the face to the climber's right of Days of Future Passed on End Pinnacle. It was originally rated 5.11R in Kerry's Guide, but it seems the R rating no longer applies. There are some runs between protection, on easier but not entirely trivial climbing.

P1) Begins just right of the original start to Days, up a layback then past a few bolts up and right to a stance below a small field of plates. Climb these plates until they run out and commit left to some big holds then up easier ground to a 2 bolt belay. Some adequate pro can be had between the plates if creative.

P2) Climb up to bulbous arch feature, clip a bolt and pull first crux over a bulge on small crimps. A couple bolts later is crux #2 on thin face. Climbing gradually eases to 5.9 past a handful of bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Without the added bolts, the FA was surely a long ways out on this section.

P3) Nice, sustained, well protected 5.8/5.9 climbing up to the belay below the summit cap (shared with Days and Endgame). According to Kerry's topo, this pitch originally only had 2 bolts, meaning a BIG runout on this long pitch.

Location Suggest change

Approach as for Days of Future Passed, starts with 2 bolts near the ground up a layback.

Protection Suggest change

12-14 draws seems right, along with a set of stoppers and singles of small to med cams. I think my partner said the first pitch could maybe take a #3 BD cam too.

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