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Routes in (e) Western Ship - River Face
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Caffeine Free S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Caffeine Free Finish S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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COVID-5.10 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Yuk S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Phone Call From Satan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Power S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Purple Headed Warrior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slit Your Wrists S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Solar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Time's Up S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Vertical Taco (Nacho Libre) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 6,166 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Mar 8, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Caffeine Free is the leftmost of the bolted routes on the river face of the West ship, following a thin seam and some pockets to an anchor below Solar. Caffeine Free can be easily recognized because there are two bolts at the first stance. One is a bad spinner.
Climb past the first bolts connceting pockets, huecos, and edges. You will be moving back and forth between the seam and features to the side as you ascend. Launch into the crux off an undercling in a giant hueco and work your way up and back right follow small edges to a good rest. Pay attention to your feet. After these moves, the difficulty eases, but remains interesting 5.10 to the anchor. There are some loose blocks just below the anchor-- don't knock them down on your belayer.
Climb past the first bolts connceting pockets, huecos, and edges. You will be moving back and forth between the seam and features to the side as you ascend. Launch into the crux off an undercling in a giant hueco and work your way up and back right follow small edges to a good rest. Pay attention to your feet. After these moves, the difficulty eases, but remains interesting 5.10 to the anchor. There are some loose blocks just below the anchor-- don't knock them down on your belayer.
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