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The Gunks are way worthy!

Original Post
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Ok, I'll admit it... 20 year West coast climbing snob. Never thought there was any good climbing east of the Rockies.

My wife MADE me come to the Gunks for our October trip. She said we had to at least check it out once. And the place is fricken' awesome. I stand happily corrected!

That is all.

Andy :)

ps. And yes, we only climbed during the week thus avoiding the weekend mad house.

mac.mcconnell McConnell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Don't tell everyone. Now there will be people climbing up and down the east coast in NH, WV, KY, TN, NC.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me- you can't even climb at Skytop,, a great grag

mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Haven't been to the gunks in years for the same reason, drive 2.5 hrs. and PAY to climb, i don't think so. I dig the fact that the money goes to the preserve and shit, but there are ALOT of climbers at the gunks ALL the time. Much rather stay in Ct, drive to Ma. or NH any time.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

Yeah, you West coast snobs have a lot to learn. There's even excellent climbing in the Mid-west and Texas.

slk · · Reno, NV · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 130

oldfattradguuy says - "Without the Mohonk Preserve, the Trapps would likely be a high-end housing development or it might be owned by the state and off-limits to climbing. Although I have not been there in over 20 years, I imagine that the preserve is still doing a great job taking care of the place. Look at what the area has become (so I'm told), the preserve is an island of sanity in an area that was overcrowded over 20 years ago. "

And this is the truth, so stay in colo-rad-yo john... quit pissing on the parade.

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

Yes, it is indeed rad there. A little pricey but rad. You think the Gunks are cool then you should check out some of the other Northeastern/New England areas. The ice is pretty good too.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Season pass and it ain't that bad. That or go to the adk.

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65
john strand wrote:And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me- you can't even climb at Skytop,, a great grag
Last I checked it costs money to climb in Eldo, Mt. Evans, RMNP, the Tetons, Red Rocks, Yosemite, etc...
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Andy Laakmann wrote:Ok, I'll admit it... 20 year West coast climbing snob. Never thought there was any good climbing east of the Rockies. My wife MADE me come to the Gunks for our October trip. She said we had to at least check it out once. And the place is fricken' awesome. I stand happily corrected! That is all. Andy :) ps. And yes, we only climbed during the week thus avoiding the weekend mad house.
nothing like it in the west
tradryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 63

yea they are

Bill Sacks · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 395

Come to the Daks!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
john strand wrote:And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me-
Bam!

Hans Bauck · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,099

I was there for two weeks in 2011 and love it. Climbed nothing but 3 star routes and didn't notice any crowds, and never waited for a climb. Never seen so many gumbies though.

The town of New Paltz was nice too. Found a great breakfast place that was cheap, and another place for dinner with 500+ beers on the menu.

Loved it, and would definitely want to go back sometime.

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Awesome Andy! Now you need to head down to the Southeast and continuing diversifying your American rock resume!

Darren S · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,388
TheBirdman wrote: Last I checked it costs money to climb...Red Rocks...
Red Rock is $30/year. Not sure what an annual pass to the Mohonk Preserve is, but $30 is cheap.
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Nick Stayner wrote:Awesome Andy! Now you need to head down to the Southeast and continuing diversifying your American rock resume!
Sooo... Andy. Have you been to the Red or TWall?
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
john strand wrote:And it's how much now ? $17 you gotta be shittin' me
One thing that really dissapoints me about the climbing community is how climbers think nothing of driving 4 hours each way to get to a crag, blowing at least $50 on gas for the weekend, but then piss and moan when asked to contribute financially to the upkeep of the climbing area that they did all that driving to visit.
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
Jon Moen wrote: One thing that really dissapoints me about the climbing community is how climbers think nothing of driving 4 hours each way to get to a crag, blowing at least $50 on gas for the weekend, but then piss and moan when asked to contribute financially to the upkeep of the climbing area that they did all that driving to visit.
Very good point, this summer was more of a staycation because of the driving variable.
Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616
Jon Moen wrote: One thing that really dissapoints me about the climbing community is how climbers think nothing of driving 4 hours each way to get to a crag, blowing at least $50 on gas for the weekend, but then piss and moan when asked to contribute financially to the upkeep of the climbing area that they did all that driving to visit.
They've upped the price 40% just in the short time I've been climbing (was $12 in 2008). Their taxes and cost to do business haven't gone up 40%. The place is a cash cow and they know it, and are hence milking it for all its worth. Mark my words -- $20 is the goal. But until people stop going they will continue to gouge. It's only when it hurts them FINANCIALLY that they'll stop raising prices. And I emphasize that because it's all about the money. Don't buy into any of the propaganda about "saving the land from development". There's no immediate threats to the preserve, they cite invisible forces at work to unhinge the cliffs from the earth. They mostly fear for their salaries (yes, people get PAID very handsomely to run the preserve).

As for gumbies, the Gunks are/were a great place to learn trad. We started doing 5.2 and 5.3s where very few places offered quality routes in the numbers the Gunks do. Once you get to 5.5 and harder the routes can actually become challenging for new leaders, but generally safe if you avoid certain ones (sandbagged, runout). IMO the sweet spot is 5.6 because there's at least a dozen super high quality routes in that grade. Some of the 5.5 routes are actually 5.6 so if you include those there's even more. There's not many 5.7 routes, though the few there are very worthy. 5.8 then becomes a very wide range of difficulty, from an extended pull up clinic on Double Crack, to easier face stuff like Arrow. Beware the infamous Gunks PLUS+. Anything with a plus demands respect.

Anyone heading there should have Mountain Project with them. With so many quality route available there's no need to climb the chossier, runout stuff. And it's easy for a 5.9 leader from elsewhere to get in over their head. Some of the 9s at the Gunks are VERY demanding. Having MP available to review comments is very handy to avoid getting in over your head or onto a climb maybe you otherwise just ought to skip. Route finding and staying on route is another challenge.

Gunks.com is also a good source.
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990
Tony B wrote: Sooo... Andy. Have you been to the Red or TWall?
Thinking they might be on next October's agenda!

Although I could come back here for another week. So much to do!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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