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5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 580 ft (176 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Paul Ross Gene Vallee Andy Ross (Var Leads) 9th Oct 2012 |
Page Views: | 583 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Paul Ross on Oct 13, 2012 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Scramble up the gully left and below the second wave south of Two Fingers Canyon. When the face is reached continue left up to the top of the wave. The climb starts on the left side of the double wave. Overall the climbing is an easy mountaineering route but leads to a fine summit and great views.
P1) Boulder off the ground onto the slab. Easy slab to natural belay. 150' 5.4
P2) Continue up the ridge to above the drop off into the tree filled garden. 180' 5.4
P3) Down climb the easy ridge to the north to enter the garden. Walk back left to below a slab that leads to steeper vague twin cracks. Climb easy slab for 60' to the cracks Then past 4 bolts and a couple of cams to bolt belay below the brown wall. 180' 5.7
4) Climb the brown wall using slings for pro to a trad spike belay at its top. 70' 5.4
Descent:- Scramble down ridge to the north then keep right to access gullys that lead back to the garden below the steep wall of P3.
Just below and left of the easy walk down ridge (after P2) are double anchors which take you (100') into the large amphitheatre. Scramble right then down back to the start.
P1) Boulder off the ground onto the slab. Easy slab to natural belay. 150' 5.4
P2) Continue up the ridge to above the drop off into the tree filled garden. 180' 5.4
P3) Down climb the easy ridge to the north to enter the garden. Walk back left to below a slab that leads to steeper vague twin cracks. Climb easy slab for 60' to the cracks Then past 4 bolts and a couple of cams to bolt belay below the brown wall. 180' 5.7
4) Climb the brown wall using slings for pro to a trad spike belay at its top. 70' 5.4
Descent:- Scramble down ridge to the north then keep right to access gullys that lead back to the garden below the steep wall of P3.
Just below and left of the easy walk down ridge (after P2) are double anchors which take you (100') into the large amphitheatre. Scramble right then down back to the start.
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