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j mo
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May 25, 2012
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n az
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 1,200
I'm not good at ow, but I'm determined to embrace the wide. Gotta pay some dues. Any recommendations on where to begin at the creek, climbs #5&6 camalot, wide?
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Nathan Scherneck
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May 25, 2012
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Portland, OR
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 2,370
Unnamed 5.10 two routes to the left of Wavy Gravy is good.
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ben jammin
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May 25, 2012
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Moab, UT
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 852
Way Nutter; Low Cholesterol...
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Jake Kay
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May 25, 2012
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Jackson WY
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 35
Second "way nutter" on way rambo wall. Lots of nice ledges to help pull yourself up
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JCM
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May 25, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 115
In addition to Way Nutter, there is a 5.10 OW at Way Rambo that is pretty good, and not too difficult. I don't remember the name (it may not be int he guidebook) but it is a little to the R of Layaway Plan. So, that would be a good wall to go to to do some OWing.
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j mo
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May 25, 2012
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n az
· Joined Jan 2009
· Points: 1,200
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Jake Kay
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May 25, 2012
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Jackson WY
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 35
I think that 5.10 OW is called desire. there's a plaque on the ground. Get ready to loose some blood
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Chris Wenker
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May 25, 2012
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Santa Fe
· Joined Dec 2007
· Points: 1,887
Bromance at Selfish is easy. Maybe too easy for your needs.
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javi Lujan
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Jun 4, 2012
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saint george area
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 180
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AndyBG
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Sep 19, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 1
+1 for P1 of Amaretto. Three Pigs in a Slot (right of Gorilla at SCB)is only ~50ft to first (only?) anchor and has some good 5.10ish offwidth in there.
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Nick Stayner
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Sep 19, 2012
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Wymont Kingdom
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 2,315
The Incisor @ Broken Tooth!
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Brandon Gottung
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Sep 23, 2012
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CO Western Slope
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 1,613
First, Way Nutter at Way Rambo Wall, then jump on Serrator. You can learn how to stack and kneelock and send a classic all at once.
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Sam Feuerborn
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Sep 23, 2012
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Carbondale
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 810
sparkling schloob at sparks wall 9+ and goes to the rim in a single pitch and covers all the sizes.
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FreeRangeHuman
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Sep 23, 2012
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safari van
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 0
Ammeretto for sure. Desire at way rambo is good if you like 5's
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Monty
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Sep 23, 2012
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Golden, CO
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 3,525
javi wrote:I love low cholesterol Indeed
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Greg Gavin
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Oct 3, 2012
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SLC, UT
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 888
+1 for low cholesterol. hand fist --> double fist -- > arm bars --> back to stacks to the top. Well worth the time!
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MTN MIA
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Oct 3, 2012
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Vail
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 405
Low Cholestrol is simply superb!
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Cpt. E
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Oct 8, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 95
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PTZ
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Oct 8, 2012
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Chicago/Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 490
I agree that the 1st pitch of Ammeretto is a good intro. Also the unnamed at Blue Gramma (5.10+) next to Unnammed 5.9. or the group of three climbs left of that. Isn't it an oxymoron? easy and off-width? If its that easy then you can side pull or use the good foot features. Then you aren't truly getting the off-width adventure or stacking or levitating. You are not grinding the skin off your ankles and elbows. The Incisor at Broken tooth was suggested. That thing is a beast (see photo) it is #4's out a roof. No way beginner. I just about shit myself on this climb when I was a beginner. Try the shorty's at Blue Gramma Good luck with your quest.
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