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The Undiscovered Country
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Lavender Butte/The Happy Submarine
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Bert and Ernie Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1 |
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Haggis Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lavender Towers, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 PG13 |
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Par Six Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Seamen's Semen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Undiscovered Country, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Kalous and Dan Gambino |
| Page Views: | 2,028 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Kalous on Dec 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is from vague memory, so take it as a loose description :)
P1: Chimney to a stance with two bolt anchor. 5.8
P2: Laybacking through a short wide section to a long, low-angle 2" crack. Skirt right on incipient cracks and face to avoid some munge. Two bolt anchor. 5.11
P3: Traverse left into a dirty but perfect hand crack. Finish out a roof with a bolt. Gear belay on a ledge to the left of a bolted anchor (rap anchor) because it is more comfy and convenient. 5.11
3rd class and hiking to the top. We belayed the first bit on the way up and down because it is that creepy ball-bearing mossback shit like on the approach to Castleton. It feels like it could zip you right over the edge!
Three double roped raps get you down. Two of the anchors have webbing (something I regret) so you may want to bring some replacement webbing (or better yet, chains!)
As far as tower routes go, this one is pretty good. Maybe a small notch below Rimshot on Bridger Jack in quality. But keep in mind, it has only been done once and IS a tower route, so be ready for a little junk. The setting is pristine, however.
P1: Chimney to a stance with two bolt anchor. 5.8
P2: Laybacking through a short wide section to a long, low-angle 2" crack. Skirt right on incipient cracks and face to avoid some munge. Two bolt anchor. 5.11
P3: Traverse left into a dirty but perfect hand crack. Finish out a roof with a bolt. Gear belay on a ledge to the left of a bolted anchor (rap anchor) because it is more comfy and convenient. 5.11
3rd class and hiking to the top. We belayed the first bit on the way up and down because it is that creepy ball-bearing mossback shit like on the approach to Castleton. It feels like it could zip you right over the edge!
Three double roped raps get you down. Two of the anchors have webbing (something I regret) so you may want to bring some replacement webbing (or better yet, chains!)
As far as tower routes go, this one is pretty good. Maybe a small notch below Rimshot on Bridger Jack in quality. But keep in mind, it has only been done once and IS a tower route, so be ready for a little junk. The setting is pristine, however.
Location
This route is on the north face (facing Davis Canyon) just right of the center of the wall. There are two larger corners that face opposite directions and form sort of a wide buttress at the tallest part of the wall--pretty clearly visible from the road. The route is just right of the right corner. Look for the first anchor about 80 feet up. I can't remember if we made a plaque, but I don't think so. Just approach from the Davis Canyon road, whichever way looks expedient. There is actually a USGS marker at the base of the wall. Those boys got around!
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