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Rock Climbing Photo: Photo Taken from the belay stance at the start of ...
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Photo Taken from the belay stance at the start of the 2nd pitch.

This pitch is interesting because it pretty runout in sections, with 10-20 feet between bolts in some places. Most of the bolts are shiny and new, so you should be able to feel confident on the run outs. The first bolt was left original in all of it’s rusty glory to keep the ascetic of the 1970′s era route. When you get past the 5th bolt, you can choose:

The popular way and head right into the gully. There is a crux move from the 5th bolt into the gully, with a garbage piton at the base of the gully that is there to make you feel good, I’d avoid falling on it at all costs.

The less popular and more dangerous left handed face. This face is protected with one piton at the base of the saddle, yet again another relic of the 1970′s era route. There are two pretty cruxy sections on this face, one right above the piton and another about 10-15 feet higher then the piton. There isn’t much in the way of protecting this face except for a couple places for micro-stoppers on the far left hand side of the arrete. If you’re not a fan of highballing…. go through the gully.

The top of the spire has two great belay / rap bolts with a few lengths of chain. You want to double line rappel this back to the middle belay ledge to be safe. It is possible to rap off the left hand side of the spire and hit the ground using two 70m ropes, but make sure you put some knotts in the ends of the ropes to be safe. (Pulling the rope from these chains is TOUGH… a lot of the time it feels like your just pulling on the dynamic reaction of the rope. Just keep yanking and it will fall.)

Submitted By: Nate Young on Sep 10, 2012
On this route:
Standard Route (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R )
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