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Balkan Dirt Diving
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 97
votes
Routes in The Sports Wall
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Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beginner Sports T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Changing Corners Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coffin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Generation Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happiness of Pursuit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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My Generation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Number 5 Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pet Semetary T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slabtastic T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | Ken Trout, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 8,349 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on May 2, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Here is another excellent route by the master of excellent routes, Ken Trout. Balkan Dirt Diving begins in the middle of The Sports Wall in a smooth yellow plate bounded by a corner on the right.
Balkan Dirt Diving, like Generation Gap, delivers its crux right away. A thin seam move and a pair of clips leads quickly to a tricky traverse straight right into a shallow, left-facing corner. Hitting the corner dusts the crux at 5.12a. Chase a few bolts on excellent edges to a small roof that can be pulled on the left. Save the TCUs for the horrizontal jams above; the anchor is right above.
Three stars for the high quality stone, good climbing moves, variety, and continuity. Welcome to Clear Creek!!
Balkan Dirt Diving, like Generation Gap, delivers its crux right away. A thin seam move and a pair of clips leads quickly to a tricky traverse straight right into a shallow, left-facing corner. Hitting the corner dusts the crux at 5.12a. Chase a few bolts on excellent edges to a small roof that can be pulled on the left. Save the TCUs for the horrizontal jams above; the anchor is right above.
Three stars for the high quality stone, good climbing moves, variety, and continuity. Welcome to Clear Creek!!
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