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Routes in Upper Spire
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Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granite Zeppelin A0 |
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Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Robert's Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up for Grabs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Aidan Maguire |
| Page Views: | 1,410 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Scott T on Feb 12, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
This route now has it's own direct start. It stays to the right of the Stepping Stone start.
Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.
Moving onto the face at the bolt is the crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Another hard move in the finger crack up higher.
A small flake broke at the crux, and is probably now rated 10a.
Cruise up past a downward facing flake and continue easily to a rest and a small right facing ramp/corner. Bust left out of the corner to a splitter finger crack which continues to the anchor. This is the first belay of Desperado, just before the roof. Lower or rap off.
Moving onto the face at the bolt is the crux...pretty insecure and barndoor-ish. Might be easier to step down to a break, then onto the face. Another hard move in the finger crack up higher.
A small flake broke at the crux, and is probably now rated 10a.
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