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Routes in Gem Lake Wall
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Cleft, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Commendable Conduct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exemplary Behavior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gem Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Gondwanaland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Left of Cleft T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nameless Dihedral V0 4 |
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Squeezeasy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Armin Gooden, Deb Thompson, LP |
| Page Views: | 803 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a line on the right side of the southern-most face of Gem Lake Wall. It ascends a right-facing dihedral and exits in a V-slot. It is not sustained, but it is fun. As a result, it is on the lean side of 2 stars, 1.75 probably.
P1. Climb up a low angle, right-facing dihedral through 2 steeper sections to a stance. Down low, maybe 20-25' up, try to put something in the crack to keep the rope out as you go right around a bulge. Pro for the belay includes large wires & a red Alien. 5.7, 125'.
P2. Go up to the large roof, skirt to the right over a short boulder problem. You may be tempted to move left onto a slopy face, but the protection is less than ideal. Continue right and move up into a V-slot. Those with small fingers may find it easier than the meaty types. The difficulty eases as the domes rounds out. Belay off some natural threads. You may find easier exits right if you are uninspired by the V-slot. 5.9, 115'.
To descend, we went east to a gully. Near the base of the gully, it cliffs out. We moved maybe 80 feet skier's right to find a couple downclimbs/scrambles. Hike down a brushy gully back to the base.
P1. Climb up a low angle, right-facing dihedral through 2 steeper sections to a stance. Down low, maybe 20-25' up, try to put something in the crack to keep the rope out as you go right around a bulge. Pro for the belay includes large wires & a red Alien. 5.7, 125'.
P2. Go up to the large roof, skirt to the right over a short boulder problem. You may be tempted to move left onto a slopy face, but the protection is less than ideal. Continue right and move up into a V-slot. Those with small fingers may find it easier than the meaty types. The difficulty eases as the domes rounds out. Belay off some natural threads. You may find easier exits right if you are uninspired by the V-slot. 5.9, 115'.
To descend, we went east to a gully. Near the base of the gully, it cliffs out. We moved maybe 80 feet skier's right to find a couple downclimbs/scrambles. Hike down a brushy gully back to the base.
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