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walkie talkies for communicating with an out of sight climber

Jon Nellis · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70

yea Blissab electronics wont replace good climbing practices/techniques, I'm certainly not one to say that they do. I'm saying that sometimes words of assurance or an impromptu plan of action that isn't screamed up the crag like you just broke your leg is nice. And in the situation I described the leader would just get bellow pro, hang there, and we could figure out what to do in our shit storm. Otherwise like Ethicist said, the leader should be able to get one hand free to operate the radio. Its not that hard to understand. Also radios now have a VOX function so you don't need to press anything. BOTH hands on the rope/rock, even tho we'd only need one. Also weather channels and the NOAA alerts are pretty freakin sweet to have handy

And no I wouldn't make them a standard part of my rack, but when climbing in the wind or multi-pitch they probably will come along. & I'm not really a bitch about weight, esp like 10. oz. Unless it's a several day backpacking trip

And FWIW the rope drag couldn't have been avoided as the second half turned low angle, the rock was pretty chunky/coarse, and obviously it was a long route

Blissab · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 5

Hey Jon,

All this adventure on a single-pitch sport route?

Anyway, weight does matter when pushing hard on a multi-pitch route that is nearing your limit.

Just add up the weight of all the gear: rope, climbing shoes, harness, helmet, water, food, walk-off shoes, climbing protection, slings, cordage, back-pack, wind-breaker/rain gear, 10 oz. walkie-talkies, maybe guide-book, last nights burrito, cell-phone, etc.

It just seems like over the years more and more stuff is being brought along on climbing routes and it's harder and harder to pull that over-lap.

I may be in the minority here, but minimizing (by including the essentials to climbing)makes the climbing experience more enjoyable, while still being safe, for me. I know this may not be true for everyone.

Again, just a matter of preference.

Jon Nellis · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70

I agree it's totally preference. there are some valid reasons to bring them is all I'm saying. Innovation and technology isn't always a bad thing.

and yes we didn't expect the adventure on sport single pitch, that's my point

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 917

I took this from someone from this site.

Usually long pause when climber gets to next belay...

Three hard tugs for "Off-be-lay"

pull up rope, put follower on belay then

Two hard tugs for "climb-on"

Greg Carlisle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

I always thought it kinda Goofy to see people with walkie talkies on long routes....or any route for that matter.....way better ways than walkie talkies..

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

I always think its way more goofy to listen to someone yell

"AM I ON>>>>WHAT???? AM I ON ???? while the belayer tugs there ass off on the rope thats running over a roof or wandering run out climb .

ESP when there are several party's climbing in close proximity to one and other on different routes .

Blissab · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 5
iceman777 wrote:I always think its way more goofy to listen to someone yell "AM I ON>>>>WHAT???? AM I ON ???? while the belayer tugs there ass off on the rope thats running over a roof or wandering run out climb . ESP when there are several party's climbing in close proximity to one and other on different routes .
Do you not believe that in many instances of this excessive yelling and questioning of, "what is going on", is due to factors relating to lack of partner familiarity, knowledge of the route and not completely understanding the multi-pitch system. Should not these people commit more time and effort in preparation of their multi-pitch experience.

Competent seconds understand the length of time it takes to create a proper belay anchor and will know how to differentiate the small rope movement, due to the creation of the belay and the anchoring of the leader vs the intended tug communication of "Off Belay"/"On Belay". Competent leaders and seconds really only need to understand these two conditions, when out of visual contact.

I have certainly witnessed people with questionable skill sets jump on multi-pitch routes and act clueless of the sequence of operations. I have personally seen rope coming tight on a neighboring second's anchor with no understanding of what happens next. The education of a second should be conducted on the ground and face to face...not hundreds of feet in the air, out of visual contact, through a radio i.e. route finding, where are the anchors, am I on belay, I'm putting my shoes on, I've dropped my belay device, I have to make a phone call to my wife, etc.

These are the instances that are questionable. Whereas two-way radios in the hands of competence climbers climbing efficiently, seems to be very valid, if so chosen.
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Blissab, I couldn't agree more but I fail to see the problem with using radios should someone choose to as long as they know what to do should they fail. More weight might be useful for training purposes if the climb isn't at a persons absolute limit but even so radios nowadays weigh nil. In addition I appreciate the silence as opposed to the yelling.
In a perfect world everyone's rope communication skills would negate the use of radios but the reality is a little different. Shit does happen. You can't learn to sense your partners movements via the rope on the ground either, it has to be in situ. So as long as the radios arent taken for granted they can only help in a tense situation, diminish yelling, and avert noobical disasters.
For the record I've gone many pitches totally silent sans radio AND wished I had radios cause it would nice to know how much rope I have left. In fact I think I could list a whole slew of things that can't be communicated with rope tugs. So unless you can teach telepathy to everyone give the radios a chance.

Carl Dixon · · Boulder · Joined May 2007 · Points: 25

Yesterday on the Culp-Bossier, I was was at the end of a 70 meter pitch, wandering around blank face and detached flakes looking for a belay anchor. Verbal communication was impossible (wind, distance, rock). Rope communication would likely have been very suspect (rope drag, nearly 70m of rope out). With a radio, I was easily able to ask how much rope was left, and stretch it to the max to reach the only decent gear around without danger of running short or miscommunication.
I would have managed without, but the radio sped up the process and reduced stress for both of us. I was glad to have them.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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