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Boulder Problem in the Sky
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.3 from 19
votes
Routes in Southwest Corner
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Bat Shit Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Birthday Pickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Golden Showers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Great Gig in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hard Up for Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lopper, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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S.O.S. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shithouse Rat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Under the Big-Top T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vaporizer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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White Powder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA Diff Ritchie, Bob Rotert '73, FFA Bob Rotert, Bill St. John '75 |
| Page Views: | 5,341 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Tom Caldwell on Jul 31, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed. fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Description
A unique route for Whitesides because it takes a plethora of gear. Unlike most of the face routes at Whitesides, BPitS is a crack/corner feature. This route stays dry due to the large roof cap. It also faces west, so it is great on summer mornings. The very large white left-facing corner is easy to spot from the approach.
From the approach trail, head near the base of the corner and rack up in the woods. Once racked up, make a step across a gully to get to a ledge at the base of the route. The start is a chimney that turns into a right facing corner. Climb up the chimney and corner, then make a tricky move left to get to the ledge at the base of the main left facing corner. Climb up using face holds and the corner with plenty of gear options. Continue until you reach a new two bolt anchor. Belay or rappel here or continue on.
Move straight up off the belay to get below a block. Get a good piece of gear here and sling it long. Step back down and make the tricky traverse left, do not continue straight up to the roof above. Continue traversing left to a piton at a stance. The pin can be backed up. Make a move up so that your below a small roof and your feet are at the piton. Clip the new single bolt that protects the crux. Get into the business by making the tough, balancy, and sustained moves up until you can step left onto the ledge. Continue moving across the big easy ledge until you reach some bolts at your feet. Continue straight up or rappel down. Rappelling here is recommended.
Continue straight up the corner feature until you top out in the bushes.
From the approach trail, head near the base of the corner and rack up in the woods. Once racked up, make a step across a gully to get to a ledge at the base of the route. The start is a chimney that turns into a right facing corner. Climb up the chimney and corner, then make a tricky move left to get to the ledge at the base of the main left facing corner. Climb up using face holds and the corner with plenty of gear options. Continue until you reach a new two bolt anchor. Belay or rappel here or continue on.
Move straight up off the belay to get below a block. Get a good piece of gear here and sling it long. Step back down and make the tricky traverse left, do not continue straight up to the roof above. Continue traversing left to a piton at a stance. The pin can be backed up. Make a move up so that your below a small roof and your feet are at the piton. Clip the new single bolt that protects the crux. Get into the business by making the tough, balancy, and sustained moves up until you can step left onto the ledge. Continue moving across the big easy ledge until you reach some bolts at your feet. Continue straight up or rappel down. Rappelling here is recommended.
Continue straight up the corner feature until you top out in the bushes.
Location
Rappel with one 70m straight down to your pack if you stop at P2 or rappel with one 60m down and to the left or continue to the top and walk-off.
Protection
Single rack to #2 C4 with nuts and tri-cams. Bring plenty of shoulder length slings with maybe one 4' sling if you plan on linking P1 and P2. P2's anchor consists of 4 bolts linked together with some webbing and a piece of rope with rings. The rope was in good shape as of June 2012, but bring extra if concerned.
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