Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches
FA: Travis Peckham
Page Views: 2,673 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 28, 2012
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

2 pitches of dramatically different climbing.

The first pitch is quite nice, and gets better the higher you climb. It starts on a steep-ish leftward angling rail/flake (suspect rock), transitions into a nice bucket ladder with friendly pinches (rock quality gets a little better), and finishes with a more of the same to a semi-mantle move 10 ft. above your last bolt. Well-placed bolts protect the entire pitch, and an option yellow Alien 4 ft. below the anchor to keep the pucker factor low (5.8).

Off the belay, pitch two arcs out slightly right to the first bolt, then moves back left into an interesting scoop/right-facing corner (finger-sized cam, optional). At this point, the route continues straight up, remaining just right of "Arms Reduction", and toeing the edge of the sharp, airy arete. With its superb positioning and unlikely passage, this pitch checks in at low to mid- 5.10, depending on who you ask. With just draws, it protects reasonably well, though a finger-sized cam is welcomed.

2 rappels with a single 60 m. rope will get you down.

Location Suggest change

10-15 ft. left of "Kid Charlemagne".

Protection Suggest change

Draws, long slings, a .75 Cam, plus a few medium-sized nuts.

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