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Rock Climbing Photo: From Left to Right: V0 - East Arete V1 - Super Sla...
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By Nate_801
From: St. George
Aug 10, 2012
I was up their today and if the slab is only a V1 then it is by far the HARDEST V1 I have EVER climbed. I think its more like V3-4. What do you guys think... Great pic though!!
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Aug 22, 2012
This is the beta I've gathered from local climbers and from the book "A Bouldering Guide To Utah". To my knowledge the ratings and beta are accurate but thanks for the feedback, Nate! I would love to hear feedback from other climbers as well so that I only post accurate info. The way I think of this problem is does it feel like a .11d/.12a move and I compare it to the moves of "Reaching for Razors," the .11d classic route outside of Hell Cave. The "Reaching for Razors" crux felt noticeably harder than this boulder problem. For me, the upper half of the moves have me almost fully extended - I'm 6ft tall, so I can definitely see how it would be more difficult to anyone that is shorter. The slab to the right of it (if you fall, you'll hit the tree) definitely felt harder than V3 to me. I'll find a way to post the pages of the "bouldering guide to Utah" on here so that should help clear up what the correct ratings are. Take care dude!!
By jacob m s
From: Provo, Utah
Jun 21, 2013
if i remember right the v1 slab is really a v3. harder than any v1 i have ever done. also the two v3s on the west face next to tip toe seem almost as hard as tip toe, i don't know any ratings on them but they seem like more then v3 to me. but thanks for the picture, i need to go back and try some more the routs on the north side of house now that i have a better idea about how they should be done.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Oct 23, 2013
The north slab could be V3 but it felt like a V1 to me. This was my warm up climb so it's very possible that the muscle memory I built up made me expend much less energy. The crux of those two V3's on the west face are low, like below the halfway mark. If I remember right, the problem next to Tiptoe traverses left to a large awkward pinch, while the problem left of the that lets up quickly at the rail.

I was thinking and here's probably the problem: All the routes are insanely slick. So even with your best rock shoes you'd still have to watch you feet so you don't slip.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Oct 23, 2013
Btw, someone told me if you start in the V3 dihedral and went straight up over the roof that it was a V6. I tried this and found it well, for me at least, impossible. Maybe you guys will have better luck than I did! :)

Feel free to add pictures, change route gradings, and which line each route correctly follows to keep things accurate for y'all and future boulderers! Peace!
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From Left to Right:
V0 - East Arete
V1 - Super Slab
V4 - Grin and Bear It
V3 - Grand Funk
V2 - West Arete
V3 - West Face
V3 - West Face #2
V5 - Tiptoe

Submitted By: Skat B on Jul 8, 2012
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