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U & V-notch after low snow year

Original Post
climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

I'm planning on heading down to the Palisade's and climbing the U and V-notch this summer/fall. Everything I'm finding says the best time to climb is late summer early fall.

I was wondering how much the low snow year is going to affect the "season". Is mid September going to be too late this year?

rhyang · · San Jose, CA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 620

We were up there a couple weeks ago. V-notch still looked pretty snowy at the time -



Some things to think about :

1. Bergschrunds to cross / snowbridges melted out (depends on how steep you are prepared to climb).

2. Water availability (depends on where you camp). Things looked to be drying up quickly near Gayley Camp.

Davi Rivas · · Ventura, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,335

Here is a photo of the U-Notch taken about a week after rhyang's.



+1 on the 'schrund and water availability.

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

I did thunderbolt two weekends ago. The berschund was small and easy to climb over. The north couloir route was full of sun cups making easy flat foot placements. Roughly 50 ft of ice near the top for a little spice.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 95

Well, I guess we will start looking at some rock routes. Doesn't look like there will be much left by September. Always next year!

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

A photo taken from the summit of Galey this past Sunday:



The crevasses on the Palisade Glacier were the biggest I've ever seen, though all were easy to spot.
Davi Rivas · · Ventura, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,335

Dang Michelle, thats a great shot! I ran up the North Coulior on Sill last year late June and the whole slope, from where you stood to Glacier Notch all the way up past Apex was covered with snow. Crazy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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