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Rock Climbing Photo: 1. Primos 5.10b, 20 m Follow the far left side of ...
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1. Primos 5.10b, 20 m
Follow the far left side of the wall just right of the arete following face through horizontal cracks, small roofs and later a finger-to-hand crack.
Gear: small rack from 00 to #2 camalot.
2. Devil’s Dandruff 5.10a 75 m
1p: 5.9, 25 m. Follow the thin crack/face immediately left of M. D. L.
2p: 5.8, 25 m. From the anchor, follow left crack along an arete. Move left at small ledge, clip bolt and move through a short face to reach more cracks that parallel the arete. When the arete crack finishes beneath roof in a corner, traverse left to bolted anchor.
3p: 5.10a, 30 m. Climb the face following bolts and place the occasional gear along the way. As you near the top, one of the last bolts is hidden so don’t venture right to the bolt on the arete for Mills Dihedral Left. Belay at the top on one bolt and gear.
Gear: 000 to #2 camalot.
3. Mills Dihedral Left (M. D. L.) 5.10c 85 m
1p: 5.9, 30 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, follow the obvious left facing dihedral to anchor. 5.8 if you don’t do direct start. Confident climbers can run this together with pitch 2.
2p: 5.10b or 5.11 variation, 15 m. Short pitch. Climb up into an under-cling crack and then reach over roof to a jug and mantle (5.10b) or climb up and left from anchor to a longer, harder hand-crack version of the roof (5.11). Mount either version and traverse left to belay on single bolt and gear. Pitch one and two can be combined into one.
3p: 5.10a, 40 m. Climb the obvious corner just up and right of belay. Pass a bolt at a small roof, come out onto the face and back into the dihedral. Once the dihedral ends, continue up and left following a mixture of bolts and crack up the arete just right of Devil’s Dandruf. Belay from one bolt and gear at top.
Gear: 000 to #2 camalot.
4. Clio Climbing Club 5.10a 80 m
1p: 5.10a, 25 m. Starting at the very bottom of the wall, climb an obvious slightly overhanging finger crack into a dihedral. Belay at anchor.
2p: 5.10a, 25 m. Climb the left-facing dihedral. Make a move right and over small roof and move up into the obvious right-facing dihedral. Traverse right out of dihedral and belay at two bolt anchor.
3p: 5.9, 20 m. Don’t climb the dihedral to the right. From the anchor head slightly left and up into the obvious dihedral crack above. At the end of the dihedral and wall, belay at one bolt and gear anchor.
Gear: 000 to #2 camalot.
5. Finger Mill 5.11b 70 m
1p: 5.10a, 20 m. Follow a right-facing dihedral finger crack to bolted anchor.
2p: 5.10c, 20 m. Continue up the finger crack through roofs to bolted anchor.
3p: 5.11b, 20 m. Follow bolts up and slightly left into right facing dihedral. Once you pull out of the overhanging dihedral clip a bolt. Don’t continue up main dihedral. Move left onto a slopy ledge and up past another small roof protected by another bolt and finish on a thin finger crack. Great exposure over last roof before top.
Gear: a rack, extra 0.5 to 1 camalot.
6. Withdrawal 5.11a 20 m
Climb the face just right of the first pitch of Finger Mill. Shares same first anchor as Finger Mill.
Gear: quickdraws.

Submitted By: Daniel Seeliger on Jun 29, 2012
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