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Roofy Business
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 7
votes
Routes in Trad Wall
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Beginner's Slab T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Creepy Caterpillar S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirt Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Donkey, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Fluffiest Bunny T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fluffy Bunny T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Minor Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pretty Pony T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roofy Business T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,690 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Wilson on Jun 14, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore |
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Description
From the CRAG-VT guide: Begin at right-facing blocky jugs directly below diagonal crack ~ 15 off the deck. To right of Beginner's Slab. Climb jugs to diagonal crack leading to roof. Make awkward mantle under roof, being careful to protect the roof moves via mini dihedral crack off left-facing corner of roof. Pull cool moves through roof and follow diagonal incipient crack left, then face moves and horizontal cracks to two-bolt anchors. PG 13 protection: standard rack with small pieces.
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The crux will be a grade higher for the shorter climbers (5'5" and shorter), I think, as they will need to be a bit dynamic to reach the jugs to pull the roof.
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