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Gwondonna Land Boogie
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 9
votes
Routes in Horseshoe Wall
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DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dogma T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gwondonna Land Boogie T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Head of State T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Just Missed the Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Wilson's Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pink Tornado Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sentimental Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Willy's Wild Wide T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Geoff Conley and Phil Broscovak 1/81 |
| Page Views: | 12,068 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | phil broscovak on Feb 19, 2004 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start off of Sherwood Forest about 200' right of the start to the route Scotty, up hill from the big trees. This route is very sustained and thoughtful. Climb up through crack systems, thin corners and roofs all the way up to the mid wall horizontal ledge system with large trees. You are in fact aiming for the first big tree on the ledge. Traverse left along the horizontal ledge to the base of the prominent chimney/corner. Three solid pitches deposits you atop the wall and a magnificent panorama.
Protection
Don't expect bolts, fixed gear or fixed anchors! This is a serious, purely trad, ground up experience. A standard Red Rocks grade V wall rack with extra attention to small gear will be appreciated. There are some spicy, prehaps spooky runouts and thin pro sections to contend with, but this is a spectacular climb and well worth the effort if you are comfortable with the grade and difficulties. The 8th pitch (after the traverse left) is wide and difficult to protect. Modern big gear will undoubtedly be very appreciated. As will keeping your fertilizer together when it starts snowing.
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