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Inner Light
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 179 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 8,234 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Eric Jacobsen on Sep 24, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This face is great. Lots of nice sized crimper holds, some just far enough away to make it challanging. Do this face three or four different ways and all are interesting lines. A tree branch near the top can get in your way on the descent.
Protection
Ruckman has this at 5.7R but I see very little opportunity for protection on the first half of this climb, and the crease up the top half is a bit flared. It is easily top-roped off two new bolts in a big boulder on the southeast corner of the buttress. There are some older chains one tier down from the top that could be used as well. Either setup will give you quite a bit of rope drag so I'd recommend some long (30') slings and possibly some big cams or hexes as a directional to your toprope setup. Scramble around the west side of the first Watchtower wall to get up there...not too difficult.
19 Comments