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Flesh-Eating Gnats
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 39
votes
Routes in Below The Old New Place
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[Redacted] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Instant Dogma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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P.M.S. S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 26 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scandinavian Airlines S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Peter Gram, Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, Chris Pollard, 5/89 |
| Page Views: | 3,234 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left and reach around the arete to the right to clip the out-of-sight 1st bolt. (Some people clip the 1st bolt of Pathogenic Cysts instead, but the rope doesn't run as well.) It's a bit intimidating to get to the 2nd bolt but easier than it looks and the clipping stance is good. From here, look for pockets on both sides of the arete and some rest stances on the arete itself. The crux is a bigger move at the last bolt, where the rock becomes less featured and steeper.
Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.
Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.
Location
Prominent arete between the two most obvious dihedrals (Ralph's Dilemma and Revenge).
Route 10 in the beta photo.
Route 10 in the beta photo.
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