Temporary Like Achilles
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 91 votes
Type: |
Trad, Sport
Fixed Hardware
(10) |
FA: | [FA 1967 Pat Ament &Larry Dalke, 1967 led Layton Kor & Cub Schaefer, ?FFA] John Bragg, Steve Wunsch |
Page Views: | 6,608 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is the route directly to the left of Evangeline. It is identified by a large attached flake with a bunch of chalk. Ascend this flake (crux) via some face moves to a left-angling slot affair. Climb up the slot a little ways, fiddle in some pro, then pull over a minor roof on jugs to a bolt. From here, take a direct line up to a two bolt anchor via a 5.9 seam with supplemental edges. There is another bolt (and formerly a pin) along this section. A historic classic, and a good quick route also.
Eds. There is a roof pitch, freed by Ben Moon at 13d. It continues above the roof.
Eds. There is a roof pitch, freed by Ben Moon at 13d. It continues above the roof.
Protection
Definitely dangerous, although not too hard for its original rating (.10c). You pull the crux 15 feet up w/ no pro, you're not going to die, but could easily twist your ankle. Slightly runout up higher, bring some TCUs for the pin scars.
Eds. the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone.
Per Carl Sampurna: you can protect with 0.4-#2 Camalots plus optional TCUs or small offset cams for the pin scars on the (otherwise) slightly runout upper face and quickdraws for the two bolts. There are fixed carabiners at the anchor.
Eds. the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone.
Per Carl Sampurna: you can protect with 0.4-#2 Camalots plus optional TCUs or small offset cams for the pin scars on the (otherwise) slightly runout upper face and quickdraws for the two bolts. There are fixed carabiners at the anchor.
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