Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (10)
FA: [FA 1967 Pat Ament &Larry Dalke, 1967 led Layton Kor & Cub Schaefer, ?FFA] John Bragg, Steve Wunsch
Page Views: 6,608 total · 23/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


91 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the route directly to the left of Evangeline. It is identified by a large attached flake with a bunch of chalk. Ascend this flake (crux) via some face moves to a left-angling slot affair. Climb up the slot a little ways, fiddle in some pro, then pull over a minor roof on jugs to a bolt. From here, take a direct line up to a two bolt anchor via a 5.9 seam with supplemental edges. There is another bolt (and formerly a pin) along this section. A historic classic, and a good quick route also.

Eds. There is a roof pitch, freed by Ben Moon at 13d. It continues above the roof.

Protection Suggest change

Definitely dangerous, although not too hard for its original rating (.10c). You pull the crux 15 feet up w/ no pro, you're not going to die, but could easily twist your ankle. Slightly runout up higher, bring some TCUs for the pin scars.

Eds. the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone.

Per Carl Sampurna: you can protect with 0.4-#2 Camalots plus optional TCUs or small offset cams for the pin scars on the (otherwise) slightly runout upper face and quickdraws for the two bolts. There are fixed carabiners at the anchor.

Photos

loading