The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

I've been out of town for a couple weeks and looks like there is still some ice to go around. Where are the best condition with in 2hrs of Denver, RMNP, Vail? Sounds like the snow is stabilizing now so Offices? Any other suggestions? Thanks for the Beta.

Was at Vail on 3/16. Everything in Designator Ampitheater is still good. The RD and The Thang are still great, as well as the other mixed lines behind The Fang. Should be there for at least two weeks, more there are some clear skies at night with some cold weather.

Well it was crazy dry up in RMNP today. We climbed the NE ridge of Notchtop as a dry (mostly), warm, sunny rock climb. There was still plenty of snow on the E face of Notchtop and a little ice, but hit it way early if your interested. Looking across the valley, there was about as much snow in the right Ptarmigan finger as there was when I climbed the route last July. And there were mosquitoes out. Really, in March!

Overall there's continuous snow from the trailhead, but the snow is very well consolidated and no floatation was needed. North Facing aspects have been swept clean of snow by the crazy winds we've had an overall look to have about as much snow as they typically have in June. East facing aspects are reasonably well filled in with good firm snowpack. Now might be an excellent time to climb route where a a good firm snow pack can make a lot of difference (E Face of Taylor comes to mind).

South facing rock routes are dry and ready to go, so if it stays warm, climbs like the petit will be just like your average summer day except the snow at the base.

North facing route that hold a lot of snow are likely coming into good shape(Hourglass couloir, Hallett Chimney). I didn't get a direct look, but based on stuff I saw at similar aspects and elevations, Hallett chimney would be worth a go. Unless we get some more spring snow, it likely woln't last long this season. Routes that don't hold a lot of snow (Vanquished, Sister Sweetly) probably have slimer than normal changes of coming in to shape at all this season.

On the drive home, I got a decent view of Meeker and Longs, Dreamweaver is just a thin line of snow. the upper half of Fields Chimney looks completely dry.

From the road: S. St. Vrain - gone; Clear Creek Canyon (US 6) - gone; Silver Plume - gone; I-70 Sickle - super rotten, Officer's Gulch - still ice, but no idea about snowpack; Vail - looked decent and blue, but Fang is still missing 60-70'.

Also, if anyone is considering 10th Mt. huts, Fulford Rd. is melted out for ~1 mile. There is snow on the packed trails, but off the packed stuff, you sink. New York Mountain has snow to ~tree line plus ~200', but then it's rocks.

Snow to ~treeline.

Summit ridge to New York Mountain showing the super lean snowpack. Yikes! Also, you may see the bootprints out on the cornice. Double yikes!

Chris Sheridan wrote:Well it was crazy dry up in RMNP today... On the drive home, I got a decent view of Meeker and Longs, Dreamweaver is just a thin line of snow. the upper half of Fields Chimney looks completely dry.

So do you think Dreamweaver is ever going to come in at an ice climb this spring, or there's just not enough to feed it? I was really hoping to climb it this year in icy form. This year is just a bummer all around...

Dream weather probably isn't going to come into ideal shape this year, but I think alpinism isn't about confronting idea scenarios, its about adapting. Every weather anomaly presents unique opportunities. For instance, it hasn't snowed much for a good long while, so the snowpack is much more firm then it usually is this time of year, and because the days are still relatively short, the snow pack stays more firm for most of the day. So right now is a unique opportunity for a multi-day linkup of routes that would typically be done later in the year, without having to stop climbing at 3pm when the snow gets too soft.

Maybe check out Quicksilver on Taylor for a good alternative to Dreamweaver.

Anybody have conditions or beta on Flying Dutchman? Saw a pic from a week or two ago and it looked full but I'm not sure if the snow's firmed up enough to avoid posting.

Nick Venechuk wrote:Anybody have conditions or beta on Flying Dutchman? Saw a pic from a week or two ago and it looked full but I'm not sure if the snow's firmed up enough to avoid posting.

The snow is in fine shape, just get on it early. It is fairly well protected and north-easterly facing. I'm not sure if there is any ice at the crux. It might just be a rock climb.

The Dutchman is in good shape. Talked to a couple others that did it. No ice though.

Looking at Dreamweaver from my office and it's mostly devoid of snow. It typically fills-in with the March- May snows which could still fall and along with the north face of Longs which is rarely snow covered mid-winter but usually fully covered by late spring. This is hopefully just a warm break before we get a a few more meters of spring snow. Otherwise, this area is going up in flames.

Anyone been up to Eureka lately and seen what the ice is like?

skied Handies a couple days ago and took these photos of the conditions in Eureka on the way back down.

make of it what you will...

Stairway and Hwy 66.

STH.

Larry and Moe.

Hoser's.

Hwy 66.

Goldrush.

First Gully.

Curley Joe.

Burns Gulch.

Drove by officers gulch three tiers looked good higher stuff gone and vail today. From the road all looks good fat and blue. Never climbed officers looking to do three tiers anyone done it recently?

Anyone has info on STH conditions?
thinking for next weekend if it doesn't melt
Thanks.

Anyone has info on STH conditions?
thinking for next weekend if it doesn't melt
Thanks.

I climbed Alexander's to the Eighth route yesterday and found surprisingly good ice on both routes. The bottom right variation to the Eighth route was surprisingly good with interesting thin ice/mixed climbing for the first half of the pitch, followed by perfect and steep alpine ice through a short chimney. The snow in the area is mostly firm making for fun travel.

On the way in, Martha looked to be in decent shape, with a few dry sections to spice things up.

Ryan N wrote:Drove by officers gulch three tiers looked good higher stuff gone and vail today. From the road all looks good fat and blue. Never climbed officers looking to do three tiers anyone done it recently?

Officers gulch still has ice, however I'm not sure if I'd climb on it. It hasn't been fed in a while and there's been alot of 50 degree days, so it's got that nice white sunbaked color. Might be doable, but only if you are driving by at 6am.

But avy danger is low...haha!!!

Lincoln Falls is still in and fat as ever. This might not be a surprise, but driving past the winter gate to the summer parking lot was for me!

Partner dropped a 19cm BD Turbo Express (old model) on the walk off. He'll buy you a beer if you find it. Large "4" marked on the hanger with yellow paint pen.

Lincoln Falls, 4-8-12.

I climbed STH on 4/1. It had pretty decent sticks the whole way (especially so on the right side). Some horizontal cracks but that thing gets super fat and low angle so its not that scary.

Anybody seen the North Face of Longs in the past few days? How dry is it?