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Alpine rock on CA 14ers sandbagged?

Original Post
Stephen Berwanger · · Montrose, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 290

Looking at soloing some moderate routes in CA this season. I'm comfortable in the 5.2-5.6 range in both CO and WY. Plenty of San Juan choss under my belt. I've heard the "hikers" say that CA's 3rd and 4th class are sandbagged compared to The Rockies. Is this the case for low 5th? Any opinion appreciated! Any first hand knowledge of E Face of Whitney, U-notch coliour on Palisade, or Long Twisted Rib on Williamson would be great. Thanks

.......oh......and let me get this comment out of the way......I'M GONNA DIE!!!!!!!!

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

Yer gonna diieeee!!!!!

:^)

I'm sure folks here will have lots of good advice, but Charlie W down in your neck of the woods has done a ton in CO and CA (and a lot of other places). He can probably give you a really good idea on comparisons (probably by specific route).

Also, I know you're originally from Cali, but don't forget that many of the peaks out there (esp. Whitney) require permits.

Lastly, no need to solo all of them, hit up yer CO, and WY, and MT, and NM buddies to partner on some of these! :^)

Ryan Huetter · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 395

U Notch has its own set of problems, namely crossing the shrund, but the climbing is very mellow, and is easily downclimbed if you don't want to drag a rope on the route.
East Face is also all there, quite a few folks have onsight soloed it in the past.
I would say there are some 3rd-4th routes which I have felt could qualify for 5.5/5.5 status but that would be the exception in my opinion.
Get some!

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

E Face of Whitney is straightforward, no harder than 5.6. I thought N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak was sandbagged. Otherwise, I haven't been on anything in the Sierras that was really any harder than expected. I do think that Moon Goddess is easier than Venusian, although the official grades disagree with me.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Most of the High Sierra routes aren't sustained so you can think of it as a series of (at times exposed) VB boulder problems interspersed with a lot of 4th and low 5th and usually on decent rock. If you're heading up to the Palisades I would just do the whole Thunderbolt to Sill traverse (or reverse for more fun) instead of the just the U-Notch. If you're up for the Long Twisted Rib you can surely do that traverse. The summit of T-bolt is a short slabby boulder problem, which you can skip if you're uncomfortable.

Agree with Tom that the N Ridge of LPP is a sandbag, but that's the only one that comes to mind.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,065

The badly sandbagged Sierra peaks are all rated 4th class.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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