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Best easy trad in the Gunks?

Nathan Stokes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 440

3 Pines is wicked fun. The first pitch is interesting. The second pitch is loads of fun. Nice open book with positive holds all the way. The "third pitch" is pure amazing 5.3 uber exposure, it looks way harder than it is when you get there. Hint. From the second belay (it is bolted, don't get tunnel vision and tie into the tree and overlook the bolted station 5 feet further behind) lead out along the ledge, up the ramp, across the "diving board" and belay just around the large block on the ledge just past the diving board. That makes the communication easy. From there it is one more short pitch to the rap station. The 5.6 finish is more a head game than anything, there is a PPP piton one move off the ledge that makes the entire thing seem like a breeze, from there just belay off the medium pine at the top of the 5.6 section.

JohnWesely Wesely · · Lander · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 585
PosiDave wrote: You aren't supposed to tell anyone... I got sent on that my first day on lead. Took me 10 minutes to think about if I really wanted to lead. Did it to a v7 boulderer and he felt humbled (after he threw my rack onto the carriage road and bitched about how it must be atleast 5.8.
Sorry. The route really sucks anyway, so maybe it is for the best.
Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

Betty (5.3) is kind of fun. Short, easy, good protection with one move you kind of have to think about. Loud though, being on that end of the cliff

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

Gelsa is 2 pitches. It's a great climb but many don't traverse far enough left on pitch 1 and end up face climbing harder, slightly runout stuff. I added a comment explaining this in the Gelsa description.

Bunny definitely has sparse gear above the roof for a number of moves. None of the moves are hard (hardest stuff is at the bottom IMO) but beware that ledges that far into the climb that aren't well protected can be painful if you fell.

Jackie is 5.5 (someone listed it as 5.6). It probably feels 5.6 for someone short. Small cams or tricams help protect the lower sections.

Betty is one of my warmup climbs each year, and now I combine both pitches. You'll want a beefy rack (nearly doubled with some smaller master/C3 cams) to protect this poperly if you combine pitches as it's a rope stretcher.

I followed on Sixish twice in the past couple weeks and it's a lot of fun. The only rub is that crux move on P1, I can definitely see someone crapping their pants there! lol It's probably a stout 5.5 move if done right. Rest of the climb is close to 5.4 . I've actually not led this yet, which is odd since I've led most of the quality 5.4/5.5 routes there. I'd recommend all three pitches, with the rappel down frog's head (climber's left) atop P3.

Minty is my favorite easy climb at the Gunks. Your hardest move is at the very beginning of P1, if you can get up that you're golden. About midway up P1 just make sure to leave the corner and head onto the face when it starts to get tough. The face is exposed but much easier climbing. On pitch 2 do the opposite, stay in the corner as the face is harder. [this route is part of the current closure, maybe mid-summer]

Red Pillar is a great 5.5 but the face on P2 (above the large ledge) is thin and pro sparse for the grade (gets PG13 in the guide). If you're comfortable on 5.5 then it won't be an issue. If you're still learning to lead maybe save this one for later.

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,781

I would recommend saving Sixish and Red Pillar for a little later in your leading career, IMHO. Betty and Easy O are the easiest in my opinion, but still worth the climb. I would start there.

Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 140
JohnWesely wrote: The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.
I swear the first 10 feet of any route at the gunks don't count towards the grade.
Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062
Casa Emilio is a fun one. Only 5.2 in the guide book... But a fun adventure far from the crowds.
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
pooler wrote:So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?
Some stuff here is kind of a sandbag for the grade. I think Betty and Three Pines are both smart options. I'm not sure you've heard the advice "beware the +", but it will serve you well.

From what I could see the objections that were being raised to many of the easy routes (hawk,red pillar, sixish) were all quite legitimate. For example, Red Pillar is a super nice route at the grade... with a first pitch that protects quite well with a fistful of microcams that most beginning leaders don't carry. Without them, your first pro is about 15 feet above a huge ledge!

If you've never climbed here before, a TR or two might lower the pucker factor quite a bit.

Have fun!
KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125

I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
KathyS wrote:I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.
Truly horrible climb, don't even waste your time.*

* just being a selfish bitch. It's fantastic.
Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,616

P2 and 4 of YYYY are great. P4 would definitely be a good introduction to Gunks traversing. :)

I wouldn't worry about drawing people to the Nears. There's a stigma to the climbs there. Their loss!

Erboutitman · · farmingdale ny · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 5

moonlight

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 269
Erboutitman wrote:moonlight
bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)
Erboutitman · · farmingdale ny · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 5
doligo wrote: bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)
truth
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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