Best easy trad in the Gunks?
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3 Pines is wicked fun. The first pitch is interesting. The second pitch is loads of fun. Nice open book with positive holds all the way. The "third pitch" is pure amazing 5.3 uber exposure, it looks way harder than it is when you get there. Hint. From the second belay (it is bolted, don't get tunnel vision and tie into the tree and overlook the bolted station 5 feet further behind) lead out along the ledge, up the ramp, across the "diving board" and belay just around the large block on the ledge just past the diving board. That makes the communication easy. From there it is one more short pitch to the rap station. The 5.6 finish is more a head game than anything, there is a PPP piton one move off the ledge that makes the entire thing seem like a breeze, from there just belay off the medium pine at the top of the 5.6 section. |
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PosiDave wrote: You aren't supposed to tell anyone... I got sent on that my first day on lead. Took me 10 minutes to think about if I really wanted to lead. Did it to a v7 boulderer and he felt humbled (after he threw my rack onto the carriage road and bitched about how it must be atleast 5.8.Sorry. The route really sucks anyway, so maybe it is for the best. |
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Betty (5.3) is kind of fun. Short, easy, good protection with one move you kind of have to think about. Loud though, being on that end of the cliff |
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Gelsa is 2 pitches. It's a great climb but many don't traverse far enough left on pitch 1 and end up face climbing harder, slightly runout stuff. I added a comment explaining this in the Gelsa description. |
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I would recommend saving Sixish and Red Pillar for a little later in your leading career, IMHO. Betty and Easy O are the easiest in my opinion, but still worth the climb. I would start there. |
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JohnWesely wrote: The start on Easy Keyhole is probably harder than any of the other routes you posted.I swear the first 10 feet of any route at the gunks don't count towards the grade. |
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Casa Emilio is a fun one. Only 5.2 in the guide book... But a fun adventure far from the crowds.
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pooler wrote:So what does everyone think? I'm talking around the 5.4 to 5.5 range? Also I know the Gunks tend to be a little stiff so how does your route compare to others not at the Gunks of the same grade, or maybe even harder?Some stuff here is kind of a sandbag for the grade. I think Betty and Three Pines are both smart options. I'm not sure you've heard the advice "beware the +", but it will serve you well. From what I could see the objections that were being raised to many of the easy routes (hawk,red pillar, sixish) were all quite legitimate. For example, Red Pillar is a super nice route at the grade... with a first pitch that protects quite well with a fistful of microcams that most beginning leaders don't carry. Without them, your first pro is about 15 feet above a huge ledge! If you've never climbed here before, a TR or two might lower the pucker factor quite a bit. Have fun! |
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I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears. |
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KathyS wrote:I'll add Yum Yum Yab Yum to the list. It's just before the closed area of the Nears.Truly horrible climb, don't even waste your time.* * just being a selfish bitch. It's fantastic. |
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P2 and 4 of YYYY are great. P4 would definitely be a good introduction to Gunks traversing. :) |
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moonlight |
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Erboutitman wrote:moonlightbestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though) |
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doligo wrote: bestest 5.6 in the Gunks! (might be a tad stiff though)truth |