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Best Crack

Peter Franzen · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,730
Gold Rush at Trout Creek is one of the best cracks anywhere. A perfect taper from #3s to a #1 at the end, with endless gold camalots in the middle.

I'd love to do the North Face of the Monkey some time though. That looks absolutely stellar.
flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Mister Clean for best single pitch. Cynical Pinnacle's Center Route for best multi pitch.

Cory Harelson · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,410

Central Pillar of Frenzy for multipitch
Illusion Dweller or Rubicon for Single Pitch. I still haven't sent Rubicon (1 fall), and since I moved away from California I've been climbing that thing in my dreams almost every night. Can't wait to go back and give it another go!

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

This is all pretty random (and strongly reflects that I really need to climb out of the state):

Flower of High Rank
Igor Unchained
Thin Ice
Airy Interlude
Wheat Thin (does this count as a crack?)
Central Pillar
Sacherer Cracker
New Dimensions
Mr. Natural
O'Kelley's Crack
The Good Book
Oz (4th pitch)

Many more I'm forgetting no doubt.

Rob F · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 10

So many to choose from, but some of my favorites are:
- Yosemite: Rostrum
- Tuolumne: Third Pillar of Dana, Regular
- J-Tree: O'Kelly's or Rubicon
- Needles: Thin Ice (or, for an awesome 5.6 crack try Tree Route!)
- Indian Creek: Well, most of them are better than most cracks on the planet, but I love King Cat
- The Rectory: Fine Jade

mtoensing · · AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 705
Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315

Many have already been stated and my list is Cali-centric, but here goes:
Speed of Life, Tioga Pass
Butterballs, Yosemite
Red Zinger, Yosemite
Take any crack pitch on Sunspot or Positive Vibrations
Serenity-Sons (maybe best 5.10 multipitch crack route anywhere?)

Too many to list in the Creek...

Abel Jones · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 646

single
1. Japanese Gardens, Index, WA (Refering to linking pitch 1&2)
2. New Traditionalist, New River, WV
3. Terminator, Oak Creek, AZ
4. Critic's Choice, Indian creek, UT
5. Black Angel, Tuolumne, Ca (want this in my back yard)

multi
1. Freeway, squamish, BC
2. Sunspot Dihedral, Bridgeport, CA
3. Astroman, Yos, Ca
4. Silk Road, Calavaras, Ca
5. West Face of El Cap, Yos, Ca (wish I could do harder El CAPS)
6. Alaska Highway, Squamish, Ca (Prolly better if linked with the calling)

All of these routes have a good variety of different styles and pure quality crack.

Rich Farnham · · Nederland, CO · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 297

Lifetime goal -- print out this thread and hit the road...

Dusty · · Fort Collins · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 210

Wunsch's Dihedral

chuck claude · · Flagstaff, Az · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 225

For me
Single Pitch
Terminator- oak creek, Az...
Lifeline* and Red Planet*-Sedona, Az
Optimator* and Learning to Fly*- Indian Creek

Multipitch
Shangrila- Sedona, Az
Alaskan Highway-Squamish
Rostrum (it's ok compared to Shangrila)-Yosemite

The star denotes routes I've been working on but have not gotten clean

I'm still looking for the crack that is nirvana

thecornyman · · Oakland, CA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 140

Damn all of you that listed great cracks that are out of reach for my ability.

brian hess · · Logan, Utah · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 400

excuse station, reservior wall indian creek
steven carruthers memorial, sacred cow wall indian creek
mexican creek, little cottonwood cayon
gold rush, trout creek

Zeke6 · · Akron, Ohio · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 80

Jtree has some good easier cracks..Lighting bolt crack

Clifford Mallory · · Casper WY · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 25

Center route-Cynicle Pinicle. In the Splat.

American Dankster · · Chattanooga · Joined May 2010 · Points: 280

Don't forget the Southeast. You know...like some roofs or multiple tiers. Add another dimension to your crack climbing.

Kevin Volkening · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 125

Hands down, Shune's Buttress in Zion. Upper crux pitch is a lightning bolt splitter starting with yellow aliens and ending in a few moves of hands with 700 feet of clean air below.

Nelissa Milfeld · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 52

Yosemite: Astroman, Rostrum, Steck-Salathe
Squamish: Grand wall, Freeway
Index: Godzilla, Japanese Gardens, Thin Fingers
Josh: The Flake
Suicide/Tahquiz: The Vampire

John Korfmacher · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 110

Hard to believe that nobody has mentioned The Line at Lover's Leap, or Pear Buttress at Lumpy...two great routes for us mere mortals.

I climbed The Line ('was dragged up' is more like it) on my very first day of climbing...there are probably still pieces of my skin up there somewhere.

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 852
Kevin Volkening wrote:Hands down, Shune's Buttress in Zion. Upper crux pitch is a lightning bolt splitter starting with yellow aliens and ending in a few moves of hands with 700 feet of clean air below.
+1, Try, like, 200 feet of splitter hands, preceded by 100 feet of splitter thin hands, preceded by 75 feet of splitter fingers... oh good gracious.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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