Meat in a Wine Glass
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Pon & Martinov, 2002 |
Page Views: | 568 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | JF M on Mar 17, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Start under and left of a huge flake with a few face moves to a first bolt, then work some sort of magic to get above said flake, gaining the 2nd bolt. A few thin moves and another bolt come next, then a couple of good jugs, then onto some 5.easy, water-streaked, walk-up slab and 2 more (homemade) hangers. Finish at a single coldshut.
Figuring out how to deal with the flake and then the ensuing thin face sequence are the two distinct cruxes.
Figuring out how to deal with the flake and then the ensuing thin face sequence are the two distinct cruxes.
Location
The most obvious feature of The Hobo Car is a large roof about midway down its length. Meat in a Wine Glass is uphill maybe 30 feet from the roof. The large flake and its nasty OW gap are easy to find.
This route is the leftmost line of bolts on the rock.
Walk around climber's left and uphill to access the coldshut for TR. Reverse this to walk-off.
This route is the leftmost line of bolts on the rock.
Walk around climber's left and uphill to access the coldshut for TR. Reverse this to walk-off.
Protection
There are five bolts and a coldshut.
Gillett's guide suggests slinging a tree to back-up the coldshut, but, as of 3/17/12, that tree has been uprooted and is resting on its side with some large, loose rocks perched next to it. There are some other trees farther back from the edge, but you'll good length of webbing to reach them.
The PG-13 rating is due to some unpleasant fall/landing potential (between the first two bolts and then again between bolts #2 and #3).
Gillett's guide suggests slinging a tree to back-up the coldshut, but, as of 3/17/12, that tree has been uprooted and is resting on its side with some large, loose rocks perched next to it. There are some other trees farther back from the edge, but you'll good length of webbing to reach them.
The PG-13 rating is due to some unpleasant fall/landing potential (between the first two bolts and then again between bolts #2 and #3).
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