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Routes in Flying Buttress
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A-M aidline T A2-3 |
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All Systems Go 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Arch Enemy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's a Breeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches |
| FA: | T.Applewhite / J.Middendorf |
| Page Views: | 1,668 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Feb 12, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This old aid route was first done in the late eighties by Todd Applewhite and John Middendorf. The Toula book describes it as 2 pitches and A3. Joel Unema and I attempted it with the intention of establishing as a free route, and logically breaks up into three short pitches.
P1: start behind a nice tree in a grungy crack narrowing to a seam and face. Follow a long rivet ladder that beelines towards the left facing dihedral above the apache limestone band. C2+/C3- (depending on your faith in the 25 year old rivets). Bring many thin rivet hangers or small wires (at least 15-20?). Belay at a stance at the start of the dihedral from a new 1/2" bolt and gear. Joel was able to work out the free moves at 11+/12- on TR.
P2. 9+/10-. Excellent thin hands flake grows to wide crack dihedral. Camalot 0.5 thru 2, (2)3s,(2)4s, maybe a 5 and couple of finger size pieces. Hanging belay with two uninspiring bolts that can be backed up by a fixed nut and #2 camalot. 130' to ground.
P3. The biz. We didn't complete this pitch yet because the rock quality turned into a chossburger and would take more cleaning than was in our budget. A bolt and a few hangered rivets lead off the belay to a thin crack and up to the overhanging and leftward leaning crack. Expect wide dirty pods that pinch to a seam (possibly A3?) with the occasional rivet and up to a bolted belay under a small roof. Maybe 200' to ground(?).
This route has the potential to clean up into a difficult free route with excellent position, depending on one's motivation and tenacity. As an aid route, prepare for a serious Sedona adventure...
who knows, we may be back ;)
P1: start behind a nice tree in a grungy crack narrowing to a seam and face. Follow a long rivet ladder that beelines towards the left facing dihedral above the apache limestone band. C2+/C3- (depending on your faith in the 25 year old rivets). Bring many thin rivet hangers or small wires (at least 15-20?). Belay at a stance at the start of the dihedral from a new 1/2" bolt and gear. Joel was able to work out the free moves at 11+/12- on TR.
P2. 9+/10-. Excellent thin hands flake grows to wide crack dihedral. Camalot 0.5 thru 2, (2)3s,(2)4s, maybe a 5 and couple of finger size pieces. Hanging belay with two uninspiring bolts that can be backed up by a fixed nut and #2 camalot. 130' to ground.
P3. The biz. We didn't complete this pitch yet because the rock quality turned into a chossburger and would take more cleaning than was in our budget. A bolt and a few hangered rivets lead off the belay to a thin crack and up to the overhanging and leftward leaning crack. Expect wide dirty pods that pinch to a seam (possibly A3?) with the occasional rivet and up to a bolted belay under a small roof. Maybe 200' to ground(?).
This route has the potential to clean up into a difficult free route with excellent position, depending on one's motivation and tenacity. As an aid route, prepare for a serious Sedona adventure...
who knows, we may be back ;)
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