No Thoroughfare Falls

No Thoroughfare Falls is a great climb with a very surreal approach through the No Thoroughfare Canyon. Until you see the ice, it's kind of hard to believe that you're going to be climbing at all. Maybe it's all the cactus and red dirt on your boots, I don't know.

If you go all the way to the bolted anchors at the top of the climb, it's about a 150' pitch. There are also a set of anchors located to the left of the upper pillar (at about 90' or so) if you opt out of the top portion of the climb. The beginning of the route can be a little thin, steep and wet, especially if it's been warm recently. The upper pillar can also get pretty wet and is probably the crux of the pitch. There's a thin smear that comes in on the left of the main route that's pretty fun as well.

If you're also planning to climb the Upper No Thoroughfare Falls, bring your partner up and continue for about 45 minutes up the canyon/drainage. It helps to get an early morning start on this climb, as it can get pretty wet in the afternoon.

The approach for the climb takes about 45 minutes to an hour. After coming in the East Entrance of the park, take your next left into a parking area marked as the Devil's Kitchen and No Thoroughfare Canyon Trailhead. Follow the Devil's Kitchen trail for a few minutes, veering off right at a sign directing you to the No Thoroughfare Canyon Trail. Follow this trail and creek bed up the canyon for about mile and half, passing a lower pool, to the iced up falls. The climb blocks any further progress up the canyon, so if you're in the right place, you can't miss it.

A selection of screws - it's possible to get a 0.5 or 0.75 cam in the rock to the right of the upper pillar.