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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread

RonB · · Berthoud, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 275
Briggs wrote:Made it out to Marys Lake ...Approach in was a pain the ass...
So does anyone know, is there no road or approach trail over to the bluff?
Hunter Enochs · · Cookeville, TN · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 10

need less worky, more ice climbing

Mike Washburn · · Orem, Utah · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30

I found a pair of bd leashes in the scree at the base of the apron on Saturday afternoon. If they're yours let me know...

Mark Regier · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 40

I'm a magnet for other people's gear (this year at least...) Found item on GWI today. Call to identify, describe, and it's yours again.
Mark 801.910.5957

shakey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 50

Did anyone find a pair of old BD ski poles at the GWI parking lot a couple weeks ago? a bit late to ask but figured I'd try... and for hanging slab, i would bring a few shorter screws as there are some thin spots pulling over the first two bulges

max hux · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 75

Anyone have photo beta of stairway (all the pitches in yet)? Or provo canyon for that matter?

Dallin Johnson · · Riverside, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 10

Stairway to heaven is in and well. The approach gully would be more attainable with a little bit of snow, but the ice is in great shape.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Hanging Slab Gulley was plastic this morning. about 4 pitches in length, and good the whole way. Get out before it gets warm this weekend!

Ian Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,685

I don't know the names of anything besides GWI and Scruffy area. I saw some ice in the gullies just east of GWI today on the south side of the canyon. Does anybody know what these routes are called or possible grades? They didn't look that hard but wondered if there was any beta out there.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

Are they near the Y coulior?

There's three fairly distinct gullies to the left (upcanyon) from the Y, and, a shorter rig kinda below the Y and just left of the approach apron (climbed that last year, WI 4- or so. 200 feet).

The three gullies, from left to right (looking from the road) are WI 3, WI 3 and probably WI 4 unless you go over the roofy pourover, then, a bit harder but I've never seen it in well enough. They're all multi pitch and all the gullies have tat for anchors on trees.

Not sure what they're called. Been climbed for years, rumor has. Fun diversions, especially in a cold, low snow year.

Cheers!

Trever W. · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 60

Climbed the first two pitches of the GWI this morning. Kind of a dumb thing to do. It's starting to fall apart out there. There are now some major holes on both the 2nd and 3rd pitches and a huge runnel down the middle of the 1st. I hope we don't have to start this ice season all over again.

Wyatt H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 6
Ian Hanson wrote:I don't know the names of anything besides GWI and Scruffy area. I saw some ice in the gullies just east of GWI today on the south side of the canyon. Does anybody know what these routes are called or possible grades? They didn't look that hard but wondered if there was any beta out there.
Is that the Triangle?
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
Wyatt H wrote: Is that the Triangle?
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/cocoa-puffs/106391929

My bet is "no". Still, anyone get a gander at Cocoa Puffs? Probably too warm right now?
max hux · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 75

I was under the impression that ice nearly statewide is pretty dangerous in these warm temps, what didn't melt yesterday certainly will today....right?
However Joes Valley looks to be well under freezing at night, and only mid 40's during the day...is it still in/worth a trip? Maybe it'd be decent in the morning, before it gets sloppy?

dante kleinman · · Denali National Park, AK · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 15

This weather sucks.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

drove past the gwi today and it looked like it was falling apart.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

December 30, 2012

Arch Canyon

Eric Bonin · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 40

Does anyone know what maple canyon looks like?

Alec L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 632
Eric Bonin wrote:Does anyone know what maple canyon looks like?
Probably nothing. Maple requires cold temps and snowmelt, both of which have been sub-par the last few weeks.
RonB · · Berthoud, CO · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 275

Well I just spent 3 days in New Hampshire looking for ice to climb and the 3 pitches here is all that we found that would take screws, and maybe not fall on our heads. So I really don’t want to hear that the ice is going sour in the SLC area, where I’m heading out to this week. So everyone wet your finger, point it high above your head, face north, rotate in a clockwise direction, and say three times, “ice is nice, grow me some ice”.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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